We just waterproofed 4 pans that uses a membrane with a 2 inch over lap on the seams. Typically we use 40 mil epdm liner. This is a curb less design so we use a product called kerdi and 0 failures. Many failures come from user error imo.
I have done a couple of small alterations on lake Luke, and where I chipped through the xypex stucco coating the xypex bonded so strong to the concrete block that the material never broke along the line between the two...the xypex layer is darker so i could see two distinct layers but only because of the different coloration.
"Those aren't poodles. They're Dobermans with afros."
Pond Armor is an epoxy coating. If it is truly bonded, it is almost impossible to remove from the concrete. Most times the failure is caused by the delamination of the epoxy due to the hydrostatic pressure brought on by water on the back side. If it is delaminating, then it is fairly easy to remove, getting a chisel or knife blade behind it and prying it loose. If it is not delaminating, the impact hammer will break the concrete under the coating making it fairly easy to remove, but it will also destroy the integrity of the surface left after removal, with many small microcracks, making recoating unlikely to succeed without grinding or blasting of the concrete surface to get to good concrete.
Zone 7 A/B
Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
Richard
Why not remove the pond armor thay easily comes off. Then take versabond thinset and do a slurry coat over the whole thing. Then take pond armor and recoat the whole thing. I've seen a builder use pond armor over shotcrete and it turned out like glass.
We are literally using thinset to make our seams water proof in our shower pans. Using thinset will greatly keep the moisture from getting to the pond armor and will let the pond armor truly adhere.
This is a steam shower we did and 100% watertight. Pan uses a fabric membrane and thinset seals the seam
Last edited by kevin32; 02-27-2018 at 08:50 PM.