Just a gentle reminder for folk testing for nitrates. Shake your test reagents well as directed before starting.
I did one test without doing so and got 0ppm. Re-read the instructions, repeated the test, and got 40-80ppm.
The reagents apparently come out of solution when left to stand too long.
Just compare your 2 ponds: the intex is way overstock, but has RDF and shower. The main pond has much lower stock, NO RDF and has more nitrate.
Maybe the RDF is the main factor? It is a mechanical filter and remove all these pollutants and prevent them from decomposing which is the sources of ammonia->nitrite->nitrate? by removing the pollutants, it reduces all ammonia, nitrite and nitrate?
hp.
This is technically not accurate. A single water change a week of 21% would equal a 21% water change per week. A interval change throughout the week does not equate to an actual 21% water change per week. You have to factor in the dilution of the 25 gallons into the 4000 gallons, then the removal is now only a fraction of an actual change. I know you guys all know that... just wanted to squash another one of kevin32's theory. LOL
maybe he is doing a 3% a day change lol or .125 an hour?
Last edited by kevin32; 01-12-2018 at 01:49 PM.
It's actual main purpose is to remove debris from the pond bottom so the fact that it does a
water change too (whatever the rate turns out to be) is sort of inconsequential. I up the frequency
or volume of the flush to account for the waste on the pond floor but not for how much water it changes.
It has been debated before about weekly big water change vs continuous flow and no consensus on which results in a lower nitrate value for the same amount of water used.
Big water changes results in highs and lows and uneven bio filter loading. Bio filters are most efficient when operated at a steady state. Small frequent water exchanges or continuous flow for commercially raised fish is almost 100%.
I think your fish had ulcers before because of bad water quality, not nitrates, and when you improved your filtration and keeping skills your issues were not as bad. I do not believe it has anything to do with Nitrates. Notice that you posted “ the most common reason for nitrates to rise is the lack of water changes.” That says A lot. If you are not doing water changes then the issue could just be from bad water. Some people also have nitrates in their water which means their levels wouldn’t change much with water changes.
true. so you don't feel high nitrates can lead to health issues or just in my case it was more poor water quality? I also did go into winter prior years with skinny koi and way underfed. this year all the koi are nice and fat and as you mentioned the filtration is by far the best I've had and was a huge leap for me I feel.
i have over $5600 in filtration on a $80 pool lol. who does that though..... me lol
Last edited by kevin32; 01-12-2018 at 07:00 PM.
If the amount of nutrient being produced per time period is 1% and the water change is with water that has 0% but at the 10% rate for the same time frame, the steady state value will be accomplished when the 10% removal equals 1%, or the amount being produced. That occurs when the level becomes 10%, remove 10% of that gives 9% and then the production of 1% brings the value back to 10%. How long it takes to get there is dependent on where you start, as if you start with 100% then the first 10% removal will be 10% leaving 90% but add 1 % and then do a 10% and remove 9.1%, but you are now down to 81.8% and the closer you get to the 10% the slower the change.
Zone 7 A/B
Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
Richard