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    Thread: Build me a Sieve filter...... She said

    1. #1
      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      Build me a Sieve filter...... She said

      And so I am....the general plans are from the VERY AWESOME thread from a member back in 2010.

      *****(will link when I get back to real computer)*****

      This mess of trying to maximize one 4x8 sheet of 3/4" birch plywood.

      I would of had it except I was not paying attention and cut my 9 inch piece before my 16" piece and had to use a piece of 16" scrap of 1/2 to make the weir wall.

      Pay attention to right hand / left hand when laying things out.













      I have pond shield to waterproof the inside and the fish safe silicone for all seams and corners. (72.00 + 8.00 = 80.00)

      3/4"x4'x8' birch plywood (50.00)

      I have 2x4 sheet of 48 Micron Stainless Steel Woven Wire 300 Mesh coming from Amazon (95.00 - - enough for x2 more filters after this one)

      X4 bulkheads 32.00
      X4 male adapters 6.00

      Handful of 1 1/4" coarse thread screws and about 2.5 hours of time invested in construction so far.

      I could have eliminated one bulkhead on the inlet, but this way I can isolate my SLO drain and a surface skimmer.

      Output will be added into the side and will tie back into the sump tank which I then pump out of into my other mechanical filter/MBBR to then feed my deep water culture beds for my Aquaponics system.




      Adam
      Last edited by BroHay; 12-11-2017 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Change header

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    2. #2
      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      Additional cost of 285.00 for 300 micron wedge wire screen.

      Revised total: 453.00
      Last edited by BroHay; 12-31-2017 at 06:33 AM. Reason: Update costs

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      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      Placeholder #2

    4. #4
      icu2's Avatar
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      What flow rate are you going for?
      Not using a wedge wire type screen will limit the max flow.
      --Steve



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      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      What flow rate are you going for?
      Not using a wedge wire type screen will limit the max flow.
      Could you elaborate b/c mesh screen is new to me and I tried to match (word for word) what the manufactured units use.

      Maybe why the price is cheaper VS what replacement screen go for? OR, they just really like to make money on additional/replacement screens.

      Amazon Listing shipping was also free despite what listing says (prime member make free? )

      Adam
      Last edited by BroHay; 12-11-2017 at 08:12 PM.

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      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      3962 GPH is what is stated for the original drawings. I am 4 inches bigger (lxwxh) overall in all dimensions and only trying to filter 1100 gallon tank with additional filtration/bio downstream as well as my vegetable grow beds.

      Building stand and setting the top of weir height at the same level as water.

      DIY Sieve Filter

      Adam
      Last edited by BroHay; 12-11-2017 at 08:26 PM.

    7. #7
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BroHay View Post
      Could you elaborate b/c mesh screen is new to me and I tried to match (word for word) what the manufactured units use.

      Maybe why the price is cheaper VS what replacement screen go for? OR, they just really like to make money on additional/replacement screens.

      Amazon Listing shipping was also free despite what listing says (prime member make free? )

      Adam
      Yes, the curved wedge wire screen is pricey. I don't have a good source to purchase it from in small quantities but
      maybe some of the other sieve diy'ers do. But the goal is to get the water that is running over the weir onto the
      screen to the bottom sump asap or the pumps will start to suck air. Regular screen hampers this by not allowing
      the water to flow quickly through the holes but instead flowing down the screen to the lowest section and pooling
      there until it drips through to the sump. Zac has a great explanation of how the wedge or "V" wire screen works:

      http://www.deepwaterkoi.com/Zakki-Si...akki-Sieve.htm

      I look forward to watching your build!
      --Steve



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    8. #8
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      The wedge wire, unlike regular wire sieve cloth, works very similar to the gutter helmet, allowing water to back flow, while sending the solids across the top of the wedges, which are stacked kind of like a multi-blade razor, cutting/trapping in one direction, and skimming smoothly in the other direction. You can get large volumes of water through the wedge wire, whereas a regular screen just clogs with the solids.
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    9. #9
      kevin32 is offline Inactivated
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      zakki screen.

      algae and poo basically roll down the screen and out of the water column. it works amazing and cost a bit for a reason. 250 micron screen and plenty of supports make it what it is. not sure but maybe Zac would be willing to make you a custom one but can't say for sure
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      Last edited by kevin32; 12-11-2017 at 08:55 PM.

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      Quote Originally Posted by BroHay View Post
      3962 GPH is what is stated for the original drawings. I am 4 inches bigger (lxwxh) overall in all dimensions and only trying to filter 1100 gallon tank with additional filtration/bio downstream as well as my vegetable grow beds.

      Building stand and setting the top of weir height at the same level as water.

      DIY Sieve Filter

      Adam
      1100 gallon tank is easy to filter depending on the fish load and exposure to sunlight. I have a 1400 gallon intex with 46 koi I think and have a rdf in place to keep up. my zakki sieve would have been full everyday with my fish load.. i would try for a wedge design on the sieve or maybe prefilter with a small settlement tank. the waste from the settlement tank could also be sent to the vegetable grow beds

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    11. #11
      Billy's Avatar
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      A wedge wire screen will cost about $350. That's for 200 or 300 micron screen.

      Other Sites Sale prices are our everyday prices.
      Vice President Oregon Koi and Watergarden Society


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      kevin32 is offline Inactivated
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      Im glad im single and have no boss telling me to build a filter myself. not trying to be mean but i got so sick of making stuff myself that cost alot and didnt come out as i expected. most make a youtube video and are so proud and then a year later what happened?

      As billly said $350 for a proper screen. A ultrasieve can be bought for $1500. Proven filter with a proper wier etc. my friend/coworker went with the ultrasieve and is just thrilled with his pond now


      the ultra sieve flows alot of water for its size because of the design not so much on how large it is. I wouldnt aim so much for size at all vs a wedge wire and the wier sertup that will be used. If it was so easy to make a sieve filter i could make $ off it. but i look forward to your build as well.
      Last edited by kevin32; 12-11-2017 at 10:22 PM.

    13. #13
      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      "happy wife.......happy life"

      Truth be told, our property is on the market for sale and all work currently being done is more of a trial/error session to reduce my filtration/bio footprint using some of the Koi world's go to products in my AP environment. Otherwise, based on flows for settling, require 250 gallon cone bottom tank.

      When we move, I'll have a a much bigger budget to play with and maybe get some better equipment instead of the DIY approach.....

      But in the meantime, the info provided on cloth/wedge wire is very useful as I begin to merge how I am thinking things should work for my applications.

      Adam

    14. #14
      BWG is offline Senior Member
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      PVC sheets and boards have gotten so inexpensive personally I don't mess with plywood if it's for a project near water or high moisture. It's not as strong but with the many thickness, shapes and angle trim available a project can be easily braced. Workable with woodworking tools and glueable. Pipe fittings can also be glued in place.
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    15. #15
      Zac Penn is offline Supporting Member
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      You have to be careful what you are working with. That Veranda HP PVC is CELLULAR material which is not nearly as structurally sound as the solid PVC that I make my filters out of. It can work in many applications, but you need to make sure you keep the spans low as well as water pressure to avoid excessive deflection of the material. His wooden box is going to 300-400% stronger than the cellular PVC box would be, even before it was fiberglassed. Just a little warning.
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    16. #16
      BWG is offline Senior Member
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      There are now many extruded PVC shapes such as angle and box tube that can be used for bracing. Unistrut braces can also be used such as the ones used on Profidrum bowing problems. It's a good DIY over the counter material that is suitable if you don't want to get into plastic welding. Just add bracing to strengthen where needed.
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      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      I am a carpenter, so I have most tools to tackle things related to massaging wood into a specific use.

      I don't plan on fiberglass but using the pond shield fish safe epoxy to coat the inside and just paint the exterior to protect from UV.

      I am working my way up to other media. I have a small welder for this and that (gates/panel repair) and looked at plastic welders when thinking of making my own cone bottom tank. I think I would have better luck getting a large round and fashioning somerhing out of wood.....

      Still debating on the screen, and thinking my footprint is about to shrink......

      Adam

    18. #18
      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      So, making some progress and decided to take the guess work out of my elevations.

      I might be making the sieve smaller to accommodate a wedge wire screen from a retail unit? Or, I might bite the bullet and try the cloth and give a true account of how it performs

      The picture of my elevations is below.



      Top red line will be the overall height of the sieve.

      Second red line is the height of my water with the way I have it running. I still have over 1.5 inches that I could raise the overall height if I were to restrict the output of my SLO and change my height of the surface skimmer.

      Green line is going to be the height of my weir. 1" below current water line with another 7" of space to accommodate overall water height changes

      ***I can adjust the output from the tank to manually adjust the overall water height. Also when simulating a power outage, the water currently equalizes 1/2" below my weir mark.

      Purple line represents the top of the inlet on my sump tank for the output of the sieve.

      Bottom red line is the top of the paver brick or bottom of the sieve.

      So now I just have to decide where I am going to make my outlet and will probably have to elevate the sieve so I can maintain flow to my sump and not have so much water below whatever wire that is below.

      Adam

    19. #19
      BroHay is offline Senior Member
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      The light still has not gone off yet, and maybe it's about to :idk: ..... But why is it that when looking at things throughout the forum, it is always stating "adjustable weir" primarily regarding sieves?

      My conditions:

      Since I have started cycling, and set my inlet height my flow has been between 12-1300GPH over the volume of my 1100 gallon tank. I have even reduced the flow from my SLO output to raise the water level in the tank. This is all by gravity.

      The filter, will be within 2' of both tank outlets (SLO/Surface Skimmer) and other than choice of wire, for screening effectiveness, the next for me is to get water flowing out of the sieve ASAP. Guess that is why I am paying attention and trying to maintain the exit height/inlet.

      I got to go stab a hydrant I to the ground for someone. I'll continue to think on it and maybe the ah-HA! Momment will come forth.....

      Adam

    20. #20
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BroHay View Post
      The light still has not gone off yet, and maybe it's about to :idk: ..... But why is it that when looking at things throughout the forum, it is always stating "adjustable weir" primarily regarding sieves?

      My conditions:

      Since I have started cycling, and set my inlet height my flow has been between 12-1300GPH over the volume of my 1100 gallon tank. I have even reduced the flow from my SLO output to raise the water level in the tank. This is all by gravity.

      The filter, will be within 2' of both tank outlets (SLO/Surface Skimmer) and other than choice of wire, for screening effectiveness, the next for me is to get water flowing out of the sieve ASAP. Guess that is why I am paying attention and trying to maintain the exit height/inlet.

      I got to go stab a hydrant I to the ground for someone. I'll continue to think on it and maybe the ah-HA! Momment will come forth.....

      Adam
      It's hard to envision how you have things set up with just a description. Can you make a real simple drawing of how things are
      connected and what level they are at based on the pond level?

      The adjustable weir on sieves is vital in maintaining water level in the sieve sump area. The weir adjusts
      to how high (less flow needed over the weir) or low (more flow needed over the weir) based on what water
      level is in the sump and so it can maintain a constant level in the sump to feed the pump.

      Question:

      Name:  Image1.jpg
Views: 2743
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      What is "M1" and "M2"?
      The sieve needs a pump after it or, if trying to gravity flow from sieve, I think the water level of any container after
      it would need to be lower than the water level in the sieve sump.
      --Steve



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