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    Thread: Prelim Pond Plans and Questions

    1. #1
      DocJLo is offline Member
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      Prelim Pond Plans and Questions

      Hey gang!

      So, the wifey and I are going to be building a house within the next year to year and a half, and that means I get to build my first real pond. I'm looking at something with approximate internal dimensions of 12' x 6' with a depth of 65", for an approximate 2,900 US gallons (these overall dimensions are obviously still very fluid; I would like to go bigger depending on how much space we finally end up with as well as cost). Based on a lot of what I've seen here, I think I'm going to go for a partially below-grade formal pond. It's still a while out, but I figured I would start collecting information since we have an extremity limited number of pond builders (e.g. 1) in this area that have more experience with liners, so I may be forced to go with a pool company with potentially no pond building experience.

      So, that being said, here's a few questions I was hoping to clear up:

      1) My understanding is that "Xypex" is mixed into the dry concrete before mixing, and that there is also a Xypex coat put on as well after it has set. Regarding Xypex use on concrete, what effect does - if any - does this have in leeching? Would using other sealants such as Pond Armor (which, if YouTube is to be believed, is a godsend in the DIY plywood aquarium world) be overkill in this situation, and does Pond Armor itself (with/without Xypex) negate the leeching issue? Could you/should you even use Pond Armor with Xypex mix?

      2) I'm planning on incorporating a Bakki shower. I obviously have no experience with them, but trusting in the community here, it seems like they're probably the best method of biofiltration available with the added bonus of giving that beautiful running water sound. My question regarding them is are they sufficient as a sole source of biofiltration in other's experience (I know this is a loaded question seeing as it's probably heavily dependent on stocking and feeding, but personal experience is always helpful)? I'm also throwing together a 55-gallon MB for my current holding tank, so I was thinking this could be incorporated into the filtration design since it would provide a source of pre-cycled media.

      3) Regarding skimmers, I don't plan on having large debris near the pond (I don't want any trees nearby), but I understand their importance for removal of surface DOCs. How are these typically set up with the bottom drain filtration (i.e. do they have their own filtration running in parallel to the BD, or do they flow into the same filtration system on separate pipes)? I'm not planning on digging a massive filter pit, but would 1-2 feet below water level for inlet into the RDF be sufficient for it to be considered "gravity fed" and maintain adequate flow rates?

      As it is, my plan for filtration was to have something akin to the following assuming a flat, non-slanted bottom with rounded corners.

      Name:  pond design.png
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Size:  16.6 KB

      As always, I look forward to learning from you all :].

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    2. #2
      icu2's Avatar
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      For my block pond the Xypex didn't have much of an impact on leeching. The concrete raised the pH of the water for
      a few weeks and then returned to normal and has been very stable ever since... so I wouldn't even consider
      it as a factor in your decision. I don't know if Pond Armor would prevent leeching, but don't use Xypex and
      Pond Armor both. Xypex needs moisture to work correctly.

      A shower is the best bio filter I've ever used. If you do try the moving bed filters plumb them in parallel as
      opposed to in series as they're drawn. The second bio filter plumbed in a series does very little since the first
      is likely to do the majority or all the bio conversion.

      My skimmers and BD's both go to my RDF on one pond and they're separate on my other pond that uses a sieve.
      Whether you run them both to the same filter depends on what filter you're using and it's max flow rate.

      The level of the inputs to the RDF really are based on the level of the pond. The two are linked together in that
      the RDF itself has to be set at the proper level based on the max level of the pond.

      Always fun to watch a new build... enjoy the process!
      --Steve



      Koiphen 2021 Koi Person of the Year!

    3. #3
      DocJLo is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      For my block pond the Xypex didn't have much of an impact on leeching. The concrete raised the pH of the water for
      a few weeks and then returned to normal and has been very stable ever since... so I wouldn't even consider
      it as a factor in your decision. I don't know if Pond Armor would prevent leeching, but don't use Xypex and
      Pond Armor both. Xypex needs moisture to work correctly.

      A shower is the best bio filter I've ever used. If you do try the moving bed filters plumb them in parallel as
      opposed to in series as they're drawn. The second bio filter plumbed in a series does very little since the first
      is likely to do the majority or all the bio conversion.

      My skimmers and BD's both go to my RDF on one pond and they're separate on my other pond that uses a sieve.
      Whether you run them both to the same filter depends on what filter you're using and it's max flow rate.

      The level of the inputs to the RDF really are based on the level of the pond. The two are linked together in that
      the RDF itself has to be set at the proper level based on the max level of the pond.

      Always fun to watch a new build... enjoy the process!
      Thanks icu!

      Okay, so Xypex needs the water for the waterproofing to occur. Makes sense. During that leaching period, is it taken care of by large water changes? My one concern about the leeching would be time to readiness (which is why I asked about Pond Armor), if for no other reason than my wife would love it if I could finally put up the ol’ Rubbermaid stock tank for a bit, haha. This, of course, could be remedied by making sure that the pond is ready before we actually get in there... guess I’ll just have to figure it those logistics later .

      As far as running biofilters in series, I assume it would be okay to run them in parallel after the RDF, true?

      I love watching other threads like this, too. So many beautiful ponds out there! Of course, like some other threads, this will die for a bit, but as soon as building commences there will be plenty of pics!



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    4. #4
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      The post that I just made on this thread https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...73#post2649573 will explain the hydration reaction and its effect on the pH and the means of controlling the pH. Time is not an issue with concrete exposed to water, as long as there is some understanding of the chemistry and how to rectify the problems. Much easier than acid washing, and safer too, and much less work than multiple water changes.
      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

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