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  • Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
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    Thread: Where to buy pond treatments.

    1. #21
      KoiRun's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by GoldieGirl View Post
      It sounds like you are arguing against being prepared ... ! It is an individual choice of course, but living in Canada as you are, you know that - a) supplies cost more both in price and shipping charges, b) are harder to find and c) can take forever to ship unless you have Amazon Prime.
      Unlike many, I have my own microscope and have taken the KOI course to learn how to scrape and scope. But by the time I notice a behaviour difference, decide to bowl and scrape, choose a course of treatment and order the meds, wait for delivery - the infestation or medical condition could easily be 2 or more weeks advanced. Like Cindy, I choose to have the items I need on hand, ordered when I have time to shop around and wait for delivery, often stocking up when I travel to the States.
      Understood. I guess I take if for granted living in a big city where meds are just a short drive away.
      Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time. ---- Marthe Troly-Curtin



    2. #22
      Pond,James_Pond's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Pond,James_Pond View Post
      Case in point: As the water is getting colder, I notice Sunny our largest (fattest) fish with a slight bent spine condition struggling a little more to swim. Next day I check on them and there she is, lying on the bottom. Darn. Get the net to get her out and as soon as the net touches her, she wiggles upright and swims around. I toss in some food and she comes up with everybody else and gobbles up the goodies. Next day, same thing. This goes on for about five days and I figure it's only a matter of time when she doesn't respond. I'm thinkin' it's either a swim bladder problem or a tumor, or both. So I go about my winter cleaning tasks.
      steve
      UPDATE: Sunny is fine, swimming around with everybody else all day. I think she had a more difficult time adjusting to the cold water. It went fairly quickly from 70 to 55. I was really worried when I saw her laying on the bottom against the sloping side, absolutely lifeless. Saw her that way 5 days when I came home in the afternoon. She's fine now!

      steve

    3. #23
      Jakessvx1 is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by RichToyBox View Post
      The most important item to have, in my opinion is a good test kit, which includes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate???, high range pH, and KH. Of these, for an established pond, KH is the most important, as a good high (above 100, potentially to 200ppm) will maintain a solid pH, and a solid pH will keep the filter bacteria happy, which will keep the ammonia and nitrites very close to zero, and the fish will appreciate the steady state conditions. For dechlor, I like sodium thiosulfate for routine water changes, and Cloram-X or Safe for massive water changes or to combat high ammonia levels during filter cycling.
      I own an API master test kit, but never in my life have I ever tested KH or GH. I mostly was into black water Amazonian fish so low ph and soft water was always what I wanted. Anyway, I got a KH and GH test kit today. My GH is between 100-200 probably closer to 100. My KH came in between 50-100 probably closer to 100. The rest of my results are ph 7.8. Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are all zero, which I was very happy to see. I had .25 ammonia about a month ago when my water was green. I've had a UV running since then up until a few days ago and thought my ammonia might be up without the algae there to keep it in check (at that time I also finally added media to my showers so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that I don't have ammonia). Since then the water has cleared the water fall rocks wasted no time getting a nice coat of algae. Anyway, with my parameters what should I do, if anything? Do I need to address the KH? If so with what? Btw I only have 6 fish in roughly 9000 gallons. Most are only about 3-6".

      One other question. Now that the weather has cooled a bit I have turned off my UV and I'm wondering what should I do with it for the winter? Do I take the Quartz and bulb out? Leave it all together? Something in between? It's an evo55. Thanks.

    4. #24
      koiman1950's Avatar
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      First off with that fish and load and pond size I'm not surprised that your amm, nitrite and nitrate are all zero. You don't have enough fish in there to create a spike in anything. Surprised you even got a .25 reading previously. Gh is great, Kh could use a bit of buffering but as long as it stays close to 100ppm and the Ph is STABLE morning and evening with .2-.3 readings, I wouldn't jump into the baking soda routine just yet. If the Kh drops and the Ph does too, then it's time to consider adding the BS. I would first turn off the UV but leave it intact and see what the water does. That will tell you whether to leave it as is or bypass or remove the lamp. It could be that the shower did the work but until you eliminate one of the two then you won't ever really know for sure.
      Mike

      check out our website at: http://www.pond-life.net



      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

    5. #25
      RichToyBox's Avatar
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      I like to see the KH over 100, but with the size of your pond, you may be in very good shape. The main reason for keeping the KH up, is KH is consumed by the filter bacteria in maintaining a consistent pH value and preventing a pH crash, which will kill the filter bacteria and may kill the fish. Generally, if the KH is steady, there is little to no chance of a pH crash. I prefer to measure the KH to measuring the pH, as KH values will change over time, if supplementation is not given through water changes or addition of baking soda as a buffer. As your fish grow, in both size and number, you will find that the demand for KH increases, as will the demand on the filters, and then it becomes more important to add baking soda to provide additional KH.

      As for the UV, I have to ask if you are intending to run your pond filtration system all winter? If the pond water is circulating through the UV, then it should be fine. If you have significant power outages, or intend to shut down for the winter, then the UV needs to be removed. I would make a substitute piece of pipe that could fit between the unions that allow for the removal of the UV and then continue the filtration. We are not cold enough that we cannot run all winter, but a good solar lean-to is a good idea to prevent freeze overs.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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    6. #26
      Jakessvx1 is offline Senior Member
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      Thanks guys. I'll keep an eye on the KH.

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