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  • Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
    Results 21 to 32 of 32

    Thread: New Pond Builder - First project - Need advice

    1. #21
      BroHay is online now Member
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      It is not apples to concrete, but this was a straight line from corner to corner before I filled up.

      If not thicken footing, then a case for the vertical dowels 24" max on center and definitely fill the block with concrete.



      Adam

    2. #22
      rescu2000 is offline Junior Member
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      Here's the hole so far. I plan on building it up to the concrete pad on the right. That pad is about 6 ft by 6 ft square.

      Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk

    3. #23
      CALHOUN is offline Senior Member
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      As close as you are to your patio and house I hope your not planning on just dropping a liner in the hole, you will have some serious cave in problems if you don’t build block or cement walls with a footer. You can look up my build thread and see why I had to do a redo!

    4. #24
      rescu2000 is offline Junior Member
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      Oh and I do plan on all of the required rebar and filling the blocks with concrete. Going to use 8 inch blocks

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    5. #25
      rescu2000 is offline Junior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by CALHOUN View Post
      As close as you are to your patio and house I hope your not planning on just dropping a liner in the hole, you will have some serious cave in problems if you donít build block or cement walls with a footer. You can look up my build thread and see why I had to do a redo!
      Yes I'm planning on concrete. I know it looks closer to the house, but it's six feet plus away, and that's the garage. So it probably isn't as big of an issue as it looks like, but I'm not taking any chances and going with block and cement

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    6. #26
      CALHOUN is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by rescu2000 View Post
      Yes I'm planning on concrete. I know it looks closer to the house, but it's six feet plus away, and that's the garage. So it probably isn't as big of an issue as it looks like, but I'm not taking any chances and going with block and cement

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      This is how I did mine you can check it out here. http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...-redo-Michigan

    7. #27
      rescu2000 is offline Junior Member
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      Quite a long thread. I'll spend some time this week looking through it. I've decided on the final design and will draw that up this week as well. The design will be L shaped and includes a concrete settling chamber and skimmer at the top of the L, two 4 inch bottom drains and the lower L will have the waterfall feeding it. The lower L will only be 3 feet deep with a steep slope down to the main pond which will be roughly 9' wide, 7' deep, and 16' long plus a settling chamber about 6x3 six feet deep that cones down to a sump well. My land is pretty level so I don't have the option of draining the settling chamber.

      The lower part of the L will be shallower, slope steeply to the deeper pond, and have a partial wall at water level. This will allow the waterfall to fall into this pool without disturbing the surface of the water in the main pond. The wall won't go all the way to the floor. There will be a eight inch gap across the bottom between the shallow pool and the main pond.

      The entire L will have a wall that will be around 21". This will be 31" at the low end of the pond.

      Filtration will likely still be either a pressurized system or S&G filters (3 or 4).

      I'll draw this up and post for feedback.

      One more question. Can I tie the two bottom drains together into one pipe? What if I step up to six inch where they meet?

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    8. #28
      BroHay is online now Member
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      I would say yes, but would reduce flow and the closer would draw more flow than the farther?

      At least that is what I encountered when tying flows together via gravity.

      Was working with 2" pipe so less capacity.

      Adam

    9. #29
      rescu2000 is offline Junior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by rescu2000 View Post
      Quite a long thread. I'll spend some time this week looking through it. I've decided on the final design and will draw that up this week as well. The design will be L shaped and includes a concrete settling chamber and skimmer at the top of the L, two 4 inch bottom drains and the lower L will have the waterfall feeding it. The lower L will only be 3 feet deep with a steep slope down to the main pond which will be roughly 9' wide, 7' deep, and 16' long plus a settling chamber about 6x3 six feet deep that cones down to a sump well. My land is pretty level so I don't have the option of draining the settling chamber.

      The lower part of the L will be shallower, slope steeply to the deeper pond, and have a partial wall at water level. This will allow the waterfall to fall into this pool without disturbing the surface of the water in the main pond. The wall won't go all the way to the floor. There will be a eight inch gap across the bottom between the shallow pool and the main pond.

      The entire L will have a wall that will be around 21". This will be 31" at the low end of the pond.

      Filtration will likely still be either a pressurized system or S&G filters (3 or 4).

      I'll draw this up and post for feedback.

      One more question. Can I tie the two bottom drains together into one pipe? What if I step up to six inch where they meet?

      Sent from my SM-G935U using Tapatalk
      I think I'm going to answer my own question. I'm going to keep the two pipes separate so I can shut one of and increase the pressure in the other one to "blow it out" occasionally.

      What are the thoughts on stainless pipe? I have access to large used, but I'm good condition, stainless pipes. I think even the three and four inch sizes.

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    10. #30
      rescu2000 is offline Junior Member
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      Below you can see the proposed layout. It doesn't include piping, pump, filtration, or TPR's. But you get the idea.

      Name:  Pond 1.PNG
Views: 39
Size:  21.1 KB

      This is a front on view looking towards the deck. The waterfall will be on the right side about 4' up the garage wall.

      Name:  Pond 2.PNG
Views: 39
Size:  4.0 KB

      As you see, the skimmer and BD's both feed into the same settling chamber. I'm hoping that doesn't create any issues. If it does, I can create a small skimmer box that sits inside the settling chamber .

      I plan on pulling around 9-10k gph through the filtration system. This won't exactly be a once per hour turn on the pond, but I'll keep the fish load fairly low anyway. I'm estimating the entire pond and settling chamber at about 13k gallons.
      Name:  Pond 3.PNG
Views: 36
Size:  4.4 KB

      Questions:
      Can I put a BD in the settling chamber and have it exit 1' below water level and use the water level pressure difference to force trash in the bottom out of the system (by opening a valve to the outside)? I plan on having a sump well in the bottom of the settling chamber with a steep cone to the center.

      Do I have to valve the BD's to Settling chamber? As you see they are connected/adjacent with a 4" block wall separating them. I could use the handle extension trick, but the pipe will be 100% below the concrete. I plan on having the pipe come up from the bottom of the SC and extend up a couple feet. I have thought about have it end in a threaded pipe connection so I can always screw in an extension from above the water level that extends it all the way to the water level +1". This would effectively shut off the line from pulling into the SC. I wouldn't have flow control, but that's not a concern for me.

      Would 4" block be suitable for the wall of the settling chamber facing the deck? I would rebar and fill with concrete. I am asking, because that would give me another 4" width in that chamber. It will be 3' 4" now. If I can use 4" block, I can get that to 3' 8" by 7' deep by 6' wide.
      Last edited by rescu2000; 1 Week Ago at 08:29 PM.

    11. #31
      RichToyBox's Avatar
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      Do you have the necessary equipment and skills to make the connections with the stainless pipe. There should be no problem with stainless, except the differences in connections, where plastic is glue. If you are buying the pipe, even at scrap prices, I would expect it to cost significantly more than plastic.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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    12. #32
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      I would definitely stay away from 4 inch block. One, most block of that size has such a small core that rebar would be difficult to install, and two due to that small core, you would never get concrete down around the rebar, which is needed for both strength and for corrosion protection of the rebar.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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