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  • Results 1 to 18 of 18

    Thread: Losing fish daily! - with pics

    1. #1
      koilNtrouble is offline Junior Member
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      Losing fish daily! - with pics

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      Last edited by koilNtrouble; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:05 PM.

    2. #2
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      Please stop using the Pimafix/Melafix/Herbtana/Artemis. These are not doing anything for the fish. From what the pics show, it appears the slime coat is sloughing off and appears somewhat dehydrated. You mention that you're currently using a 200gal tank outdoors with a pressure bio filter. Have the fish been put into this or is this their normal home. I see rock/gravel on the bottom as well. I would suggest removing all of it to allow for a cleaner environment. Taking/providing water condition test results is fine and appreciated however it appears you're dealing with something that isn't showing up on the test results. Do you have anyone near you that can assist you with a microscopic scrape/scope to see if any parasites are involved and if so, which ones. When you say to checked the gills, but only "in water" does that mean you just looked at the fish from the side, through the gill openings to see color or did you inspect the dead fish while still in the water?
      Mike

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    3. #3
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      Deleted
      Last edited by koilNtrouble; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:06 PM.

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      Knowing your Kh level might be very helpful. Also, check your Ph at sunrise and sun up and note the difference. I bet you are having wide Ph swings and that can be a leading cause of other health issues.

    5. #5
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      Is a Kh test something I can grab at the local chain pet store, or should I head to a speciality pond store? Kh is the one thing I'm not familiar with at all.
      Last edited by koilNtrouble; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:07 PM.

    6. #6
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      Yes. Control of the pH is quite easy. It is controlled by the KH, which if low allows the pH to swing wildly. The API brand KH test kit should be available at most pet stores, but you may need to go to an aquarium place. If the KH is less than about 100ppm, or 6 drops with the test kit, then it is not high enough. In the evening the pH will be highest, due to the photosynthesis going on in the pond where the algae and other plants will consume the carbon dioxide, which dissolved in water is carbonic acid. At night the plants join the fish in adding carbon dioxide to the water so the pH is lowest in the morning. If the pH is over 8 in the evening, you can start adding baking soda at fairly high quantities, based on the quantity determined by the calculator at the top of this page to bring the KH up to 150 or 200ppm. If the pH is not up to 8 in the evening, then take no more than about 1/4 of the quantity that would be required to raise the KH to a value of 100ppm, and then after it is over 100, add the rest to bring it up to 150 or 200. The KH is consumed in stabilizing the pH so it needs to be measured frequently and baking soda added when the KH drops to 100 or below.

      If the KH is near zero, you could be going through pH crashes, where the pH will drop to around 5 and this is too acid, and causes the fish to burn. It will also cause the bio bacteria to be killed, causing rapid increases in ammonia, which will also burn the fish.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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    7. #7
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      What happened?????They never came back on to tell us????/
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    8. #8
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      I'm sorry. I can't help. I see rocks.Rocks in a koi pond is idiocy perpetuated by nitwits like The Koivet Balloon. Its just not do-able. This will continue until you create a decent habitat for these fish.Clean up. Regroup. Start over with careful attention to saturated oxygen, good filtration and habitat.Put those rocks in a rock garden. They should have enough bacteria on them( like your fish) to grow some neato green sctuff.
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    9. #9
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      Last edited by koilNtrouble; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:08 PM.

    10. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by koilNtrouble View Post
      PH : 7.4
      Ammonia: -.25ppm (not perfectly yellow, not quite at the .25 color)
      Ammonia too high... need better bio.


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    11. #11
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      Deleted
      Last edited by koilNtrouble; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:09 PM.

    12. #12
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      Have you ordered that KH test kit yet?
      Are you adding Prime to help deal with the elevated ammonia?

    13. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by mplskoi View Post
      Have you ordered that KH test kit yet?
      Are you adding Prime to help deal with the elevated ammonia?
      See above update !
      I emptied and scrubbed out pond and refilled, sans rocks, cleaned everything up, new water, and last remaining fish and water readings are now all doing great!

    14. #14
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      Since you cleared all the rocks from the bottom and scrubbed the tank and that's good how do you think your bio filtration will be able to handle the situation and I would halt on the feeding for a couple of days till you know your filter is up an running.

    15. #15
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      Deleted
      Last edited by koilNtrouble; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:09 PM.

    16. #16
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      Not testing so you could see if he makes it?!?!?! Testing is to HELP him make it! If you know what your water parameters are you can take the appropriate steps to maintain good water quality. Waiting until they get sick or die is just asking for trouble.
      GloriaL
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    17. #17
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      Knowing the KH is more important than knowing the pH (unless you are measuring pH multiple times per day). KH is what prevents pH from changing. As long as the pH is constant, it really does not matter what the value is (within a range of about 6.5 to 9.0). For more information on the relationship between KH and pH, read KH for Laypersons and Newbies, pH for Laypersons and Newbies, and pH, KH, and GH in Depth.

      In a shallow pond or a 200 gallon stock tank, water temperature swings are also major stressors, and the higher the water temperature, the less oxygen is dissolved in the water. It is very difficult to keep koi healthy in small volumes of water.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

    18. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by RickF View Post
      Knowing the KH is more important than knowing the pH (unless you are measuring pH multiple times per day). KH is what prevents pH from changing. As long as the pH is constant, it really does not matter what the value is (within a range of about 6.5 to 9.0). For more information on the relationship between KH and pH, read KH for Laypersons and Newbies, pH for Laypersons and Newbies, and pH, KH, and GH in Depth.
      Thank you Rick! Fantastic information in those links, much appreciated.

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