hey dong. my rdf has been doing good now. pressure ttank is usually at 62 psi and no power used.
hey dong. my rdf has been doing good now. pressure ttank is usually at 62 psi and no power used.
hi Kevin,
Yes, you did well there, I think the pressure tank solution also work... watch for the draw down and I think it will run like clockwork ... hope this will stop flood your lawn
btw: start digging ..., your tosai koi will be yonsai ???
Mike
check out our website at: http://www.pond-life.net
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yeah. I cranked my ff pump and got more draw down. I have the waste plate propped open. i was able to get the pond level back to full after cranking the ff up with more draw down.
the tosai will soon be nisai i thought. 3 of my tosai sure have got big
41 koi and water is like glass. . water test perfect
shower setup with 40 liter air pump. if there was docs you would see foam. the rdf is doing the grunt work
I'm totally kidding about the 3 tosai of course
Last edited by kevin32; 09-18-2017 at 08:48 PM.
Bump -
After so many months-smooth sailing, my BE is come to a halt for the last 2 weeks, plan B is working with J-mat and keep the pond clear so far ( I remove the screen, turn the RDF down so all water will come as by pass mode).
No pinion-spur gear, no sprocket/chain supply anywhere ... If anyone have a source for the motorized conversion gear combo, please let me know.
-d-
I will be posting my conversion later on in 2020, I need to play around with the sensors and controller that I bought to make sure they work the way I hope before ripping apart the BE in the spring.
In the meantime, I recommend simply watching eBay for the gears that you need. For mine, I selected a gear ratio of about 5:1 for the motor speed I have (12 RPM - Single-Phase 110/115 VAC, 60 Hz, 25 W (1/30 HP) AC Gear Motor (Motor with 150:1 Gearhead))
The driven gear was the hardest to find, so I bit the bullet and spent almost $100 on it, the drive gear and chain were easier to find – and cheaper! So – concentrate on the driven gear, then buy the drive sprocket based upon the teething that you find on the driven gear and your desired rotation speed. This is what I ended up with:
Martin 40B10SS 3/4 Sprocket Stainless Steel 10 Teeth 3/4" keyed Bore 40B10SS
Martin 40B54SS, #40 Sprocket, 1" bore 1/4" key 54 Tooth, Stainless Steel,
40 SS Stainless Steel Roller Chain 5 Feet with 1 Connecting Link
(Hint – the numbering convention is that the first number is the chain size (#40), followed by hub type (I went with type “B”), number of teeth (10 and 54), and material (SS-stainless steel).
The total was about $160 for the gears and chain- you can get it cheaper if you are patient! I just wanted to have it all done. Depending upon what you find, you may need to get an adapter for the shafts – I found them listed as “Shaft Sleeve Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Bushing Sheave & Key Stainless”. So- get a hub size that is the right size for your motor/drum shaft or larger, since it is easier to find an adapter than re-drill the hub (unless you know a machinist!).
I will let you know if mine all fits together as planned when I get time to play!
Last edited by kby103; 12-26-2019 at 07:23 AM.
I used a kit that's apparently no longer available but avorancher did his using more conventionally
found parts that might help with the conversion:
https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...g-Blue-Eco-RFD
If you want to go with chain and sprockets here is a good source for #25 plastic sprockets 16 to 100 tooth. They could be bolted to the existing stainless steel hub. Plastic roller chain has a working load of 20 pounds. Stainless steel roller chain can also be used on plastic sprockets.
The real Batman wears polyester! Don't be fooled by the plastic imposter.
Are the gears stripping or the water piston jamming in your cases? Curious to know.
I will be replacing the magnetic float on mine with a underwater rated 24v solenoid coil off a fountain valve in a couple of weeks.
It will be operated by my Levelor which has generally fallen into disuse since I do a trickle flow through these days.
Hope that doing so will allow me to better tune the flush cycles, which are a little long right now for my liking.
Any one did convert motor kits for blue eco drum filter. If you have extra kits don’t use to want to sell i like to buy it please thanks.
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How did these parts fit for you? Did you find a 3/8" to 3/4" sleeve adapter for the geared to drive sprocket? I'm assuming the motor you picked up was the one with the 3/8" output? This seems like the only thing I can't find right now, which seems weird.
The other question regards the gear on the drum shaft - did you also go with a sleeve here, or did you weld them?
Best,
-t
Unfortunately (for lessons learned-not me!) the unit has been working very nicely for me, which significantly lowered its priority in view of other things, so I have not yet done the conversion and cannot give you any lessons learned (although I am somewhat hopeful that I have all of the items I will need when the time comes).
The motor I got, however, has a 5/8 inch shaft (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...U3G1UUK6&psc=1), and I found a 5/8-3/4 SS adapter on eBay.
I also obtained a sleeve for the drum shaft, (3/4-1"), which is hopefully right!
So, is the plan to use something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/3mirrors-Stai.../dp/B07MM3V5R4
Presumably it would get fit with a ~2" length of 5/8" stainless on the other side to account for the short length of the motor shaft?
I thought the drum shaft was 20mm diameter?
https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...94#post2729194
Maybe this guy would work?
https://www.ondrivesus.com/PCB.53.48
I think I've got most everything lined up, it's just the dratted short motor shaft that seems to be the biggest problem.
Thanks again!
-t