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Thread: Water Parameter Primer?

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    Family_Man is offline
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    Water Parameter Primer?

    Sorry if this question is redundant I have been looking for a list of what water parameters should be tested in the pond, there acceptable ranges, and what should be adjusted in what order if a parameter is out of balance?

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    I have been away for a couple of weeks and am not sure if you got an answer to your question or not. The basic tests are ammonia, value should be zero. This occurs after the bio bacteria have developed sufficiently on a sufficient sized filter. Nitrites are the second in the string of nitrogen waste, created by the bacteria converting ammonia, and once established the value should be zero. The third form of nitrogen waste is nitrate, and the only easy way to get it out of the system is by dilution by water changes, and generally is not a concern. The next tests are pH, and it is not necessary that it have any particular value, except that it is stable morning to evening, and the way to assure a stable pH is through the maintenance of a good level of alkalinity, or KH, which should be above 100 with above 150 or 200 being good. With good aeration to drive off the carbon dioxide, the use of baking soda to raise the KH, will keep the pH from falling below about 8.3, and if it is going above 8.3 then the addition of calcium (calcium chloride) to react with carbonates will keep the pH from going over the 8.3.

    See http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...ns-And-Newbies , http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...ns-and-Newbies , and http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...nd-GH-in-Depth for a deeper understanding of the balance.

    There are different test methods with the strip tests being very course and not very reliable, the drop tests like the API test being much better, digital pH pens and salt pens are reasonable and give a much more readable result than the color interpretation of the drop test, and then there are digital methods of testing that go up in price significantly.
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