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    Thread: overcrowding

    1. #1
      kevin32 is offline Inactivated
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      overcrowding

      well i got a little defensive that i was overcrowding. I have to many fish in a 300 gallon rubbermaid and have been fighting the nitrite level. ammonia is 0 but i just can't get the nitrite down. I have the pond salted to .15 to to keep it ok. I encourage everyone to test all levels ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. if these are kept near 0 especially nitrates then your fish will thank you. I will move and sell some fish to get things back on track. the fish are healthy and doing fine but the nitrite is .25.

      sorry for my over defensive again. I respect all your advice
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      moving.
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      Kevin, can you give us a little more info on the system? Size and type of filter, pH, KH in particular. Dealers are able to run very overstocked ponds but it comes with what most would think is beefy filters. We may be able to help you get the nitrites down.
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      Quote Originally Posted by kevin32 View Post
      well i got a little defensive that i was overcrowding. I have to many fish in a 300 gallon rubbermaid and have been fighting the nitrite level. ammonia is 0 but i just can't get the nitrite down. I have the pond salted to .15 to to keep it ok. I encourage everyone to test all levels ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. if these are kept near 0 especially nitrates then your fish will thank you. I will move and sell some fish to get things back on track. the fish are healthy and doing fine but the nitrite is .25.

      sorry for my over defensive again. I respect all your advice
      The nitrates are not as much of a concern as the other 2

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      Quote Originally Posted by stephen View Post
      The nitrates are not as much of a concern as the other 2
      I known ammonia and nitrite are dangerous. I still feel feel nitrates are important also.

      I have a 1600gph tetra sub pump feeding waterfall filter. also a a active aqua 1000 gph feeding a Matala biosteps 10 on 300 gallon pond

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      I have not lost any koi and not looking to much for advice. I'm just trying to inform some about overcrowding... just don't do the mistakes i did .

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      We will all stay tuned!

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      Oops sorry rich all 4 ponds 7.0 ph all day. i need to check Kh. I have lithaqua on 2 ponds and all 4 ponds are 7.0 ph

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      Quote Originally Posted by stephen View Post
      We will all stay tuned!
      I hope for the best.

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      Thanks.
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      and dealers also have fish flashing . I've never had a fish flash in 4 years and I kept koi 5 years. I've had issues but when koi come In from Japan your dealer should make sure the fish are ready to go. I've seen alot of bad stuff

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      having 7.0 ph all the time I don't really check the kh.

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      not to bad
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      my water source is 7.4 to at most 8.4. I Check my water with 2 different ph metetse and I have 7.0 ph every time I check each pond

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      new fish are being skittish..more salt.and Elbagin.

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      I'm struggling lol
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      Quote Originally Posted by kevin32 View Post
      having 7.0 ph all the time I don't really check the kh.
      I consider the kh more important. If my kh is stable, I have a safety sponge for my ph.

    19. #19
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      I will check kh when I get home. I actually have lithaqua in 3 of the 4 ponds no.t just 2. I just moved 8 to other pond. I wanted to make sure other pond was balanced.

    20. #20
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      Lithaque is not a fast acting KH source. If I have NitrItes then I salt to alleviate that BUT I also take the KH up to 200 ppm using BS, to help the filters cycle. You may claim that your filters are cycled since you are reading NitrAtes. However that is not the case. The filters cycle each and every time you add new fish or take fish out. It is always a balancing act. In this case you have been adding fish steadily from your posting the last months. Each time the filters need to compensate. The N02 to NO3 bacteria take longer to develop than NH3/4 to NO2. Each Spring I have about a 2 week period of NitrItes in the ponds as they warm up and cycle for the year. After this time when the NitrItes come back down, then I let the KH go back to 80-100 ppm.

      You should always be testing for KH if you are measuring pH. Once you know your source water then KH becomes the more important value.

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