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  • Page 14 of 15 FirstFirst ... 41112131415 LastLast
    Results 261 to 280 of 292

    Thread: DIY RDF "2.0", The Beast

    1. #261
      kevin32's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      Though not really related to the RDF, I figured this was as good a place as any to say that due to this site, I added several features to my filtration system that really help out on maintenance, specifically the straight-through stand-pipes on the bottom drains, coupled with using the dryer vent cleaner. Makes a hard/impossible chore a pleasure. Thanks for the suggestions!
      Are you not flowing enough gph to keep your drain lines clean?

    2. #262
      kimini is online now Senior Member
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      My concern isn't keeping the drains clean per se, it's keeping the "marine life" from attaching to the walls.

    3. #263
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      As a note to others considering building an RDF, I always wondered why everyone goes straight for 316 stainless instead of 304. If an object isn't welding, 304 will do just fine in fresh water. Case in point: this filter screen has been submerged for roughly a year. Yesterday it was swapped out for a more open grid (140 micron, 100 mesh) because I think biofilm was growing on the wires and closing off the already tiny passages. Anyway, as you can see, absolutely zero rust.

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    4. #264
      kimini is online now Senior Member
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      I heard the RDF cycling too frequently and went out to check on it. There are clear stand pipes on the inlet and outlet side to show how the unit is working. The "failure" was surprising this time, as the inlet level was below normal yet pond level was fine. I'm running two 4" bottom drains to keep flow resistance to a minimum. As an experiment, the main pump was turned off and sure enough, the inlet level rose to match the pond, meaning something was restricting the flow. Long story short, enough string algae had been pulled into the bottom drains that it was constricting flow to a substantial degree. A dryer vent brush was run through both drains and pulled out a fair bit of the stuff, but it grows so fast it has to be dealt with by other means. Baquacil Oxidizer (27% hydrogen peroxide) has been ordered.
      Last edited by kimini; 03-29-2018 at 06:04 PM.

    5. #265
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      The hydrogen peroxide really did a number on the string algae and flow is back to normal. Sure enough, giant balls of dead string algae are being pulled out of the drum. Time will tell how long the string algae stays away, as in, did the H2O2 break its cycle for the entire season, or just kill it off the current growth and it'll start growing all over again. So far it seems to be the former.

    6. #266
      icu2's Avatar
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      Just wondering how she was holding up?

      And a question (there's always an ulterior motive ):
      I wondered if you remembered the specs (torque and rpm) from your original motor you used from Motormaker? The links back on post #98
      are no longer valid.
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "It is far better to be alone, than to be in bad company." --George Washington

    7. #267
      kimini is online now Senior Member
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      Did you search for "motormaker" or "makermotor"; it's the latter and the site's still working. I used their model PN00113, which is 5 rpm @ 30 ft-lbs, http://www.makermotor.com/12V_variab...ear_motor.html. You can get it with or with or without a speed control, but it reduces the torque by the same amount as speed, so I now run it direct for about 10-12 seconds, or one revolution. The motor and gearbox are available separately, in case one or the other wears out. They also have a slightly smaller unit, PN00113-6, which has half the torque but also costs less.

      It's been running smoothly for nearly a year now after switching to direct drive, which solved all the problems. The motor and gearbox are holding up fine, partly because it's in a weatherproof box and because it doesn't support drum weight.
      Last edited by kimini; 06-06-2018 at 12:08 AM.

    8. #268
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      I do that all the time! But no, I meant Makermotor. And I wasn't doing a search, I was just using the links
      you provided on post #98. I know not everyone has had success with chain drive but that's what I may try with
      my BE to start. I was looking at the PN01007-38 with 4.4ft/lb. and 50 rpm. I'm curious about your thoughts on
      that one.

      And that's great to hear about the stability of your RDF!
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "It is far better to be alone, than to be in bad company." --George Washington

    9. #269
      kimini is online now Senior Member
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      I'll have to look later, I can't access the site from this PC. FWIW, none of their stuff is stainless, so they have to be kept away from water or spray.

    10. #270
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      Sorry Kimini , OT for a bit ... I been watching and learning a lot from ya ... I build automation too, in my past life

      Steve: you thinking about direct drive electric motor with sensor ? I am thinking about just replace the hunter float valve with a good water valve/ relay timer ...
      Let me know when you ready and may be start a thread ...
      -d-

      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      I do that all the time! But no, I meant Makermotor. And I wasn't doing a search, I was just using the links
      you provided on post #98. I know not everyone has had success with chain drive but that's what I may try with
      my BE to start. I was looking at the PN01007-38 with 4.4ft/lb. and 50 rpm. I'm curious about your thoughts on
      that one.

      And that's great to hear about the stability of your RDF!

    11. #271
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ccna101 View Post
      Sorry Kimini , OT for a bit ... I been watching and learning a lot from ya ... I build automation too, in my past life

      Steve: you thinking about direct drive electric motor with sensor ? I am thinking about just replace the hunter float valve with a good water valve/ relay timer ...
      Let me know when you ready and may be start a thread ...
      -d-
      I need to replace the valve but I don't want to use a direct drive motor. To use a direct drive all I can envision is somehow
      cutting through the stainless steel wall which is a bit daunting. I want to try and do something that most anyone could do to
      make the older models reliable. The simpler I can make it, the better chance I have to actually making it work.
      I don't want to mess up this thread so just pm me your ideas and I'll start another thread when I get to that point. Thanks!
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "It is far better to be alone, than to be in bad company." --George Washington

    12. #272
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      You guys amaze me. I feel pretty good if I replace a bulb in the fridge without screwing it up.
      "Those aren't poodles. They're Dobermans with afros."

    13. #273
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jaymeseywaymsey View Post
      I know this is really late, but wouldn't it have been better to use expanded pvc with cnc milled openings that was heat formed around the frame of the drum. Then you could wrap the wire screen around it and secure with clamping bands? You would save a lot of weight, simplifying the chain drive as well as the screen chafing?












      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
      Can anyone tell me where this thread is?

      BTW. awesome DIY. skills on that drum filter

    14. #274
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by lukef View Post
      You guys amaze me. I feel pretty good if I replace a bulb in the fridge without screwing it up.

      If you don't screw it up, IT WON'T LIGHT UP!

      Garfield.
      Find more about Weather in Durban, ZA

    15. #275
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      I'm curious how you connected that Makermotor direct drive to your drum.

    16. #276
      kimini is online now Senior Member
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      Collar and pin - there are pictures from earlier in this thread, posts #224 and 228. Just make sure whatever gets wet is stainless. I made my own adaptor which coupled to the drum shaft on one side, and the rotisserie motor shaft on the other side. The trick is to not drill down the middle of the adaptor in order to keep water away from the gear motor.

      While I'm here, I just realized it's been more than a year since it was converted to direct-drive, and if building another one, I do it the same way. Zero problem that weren't self-inflicted. That said, at some point I need to check the motor brushes, though I suspect they aren't meant to be changed - hope I'm wrong. I do have a spare motor though, if and when this one gives up. I'm glad to report that the gearbox and motor have blown right past the dire warnings I was given regarding how long they last.

      Somewhat related, I'm making the conversion to a shower filter and realize that it makes the operation of the RDF all the more critical. If for whatever reason it starts letting stuff through, it's going to be bad news for the bio media. That's the nice thing about moving-bed filters... if the pump stops, no problem, if the RDF fails, no problem, but with a shower, it's a different story. Fingers crossed.
      Last edited by kimini; 07-23-2018 at 08:32 PM.

    17. #277
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      I have some questions about your build. I see you have problems with the jets not cleaning the screen of biofilms. I was wonder about the distance you have between the jets, and how it relates to the distance of the jets to screen. I was looking at ordering the 50 degree jets and figured they need to be 1-5/16" apart when set at 1-1/2" above the screen to get full coverage. That takes a dozen jets to cover my 16" of exposed screen. I could back the spray bar away, but the farther the jets are away the less pressure they will exert blasting the crud off the screen. I was wondering what degree jets, what spacing, and what distance you wound up going with? Could changing the jets, rather than using coarser screen solve your problem?

      Are you still pleased with the proximity switch? I think I'm going to go that route myself, as I can't find a float switch that looks like it would work that well. Doesn't seem like it would be that big a deal to design a float on a rod that went up through top of the tank with a simple mechanical switch above where it wouldn't be affected by the water. Have an adjustable length rod, with nothing but the float in the water. I want an additional low tank level safety switch to shut the pump off just in case, but hate to pay the price for two of those proximity switches.

      I was wondering where you found those rollers you used. Haven't found them or any I really like on McMaster-Carr.

    18. #278
      kimini is online now Senior Member
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      Nozzles are brass, McMaster 3404K73, 50 degree, at about 2" spacing.

      Yes, very happy with the proximity switch because it completely avoids the issue of clogging, jamming, or being falsely activated by anything growing on the float.

      Regarding my comments about the nozzles not removing the bio film - I don't really know that for sure. My decision to go with a more open screen was to reduce the frequency of cycles. Also, I think it's silly trying to remove material from the water that's much less than 140 micron simply because we can't really see it. My opinion.
      Last edited by kimini; 07-27-2018 at 10:00 PM.

    19. #279
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      Has anyone used a section of sewer or water pipe for a drum. You can cut/router slots in it to look like the drum part in post #273. Add end caps with PVC and router a grove in it to fit the pipe into.
      Following this post as I am thinking of building one when I get my ponds going.

    20. #280
      kimini is online now Senior Member
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      I seem to remember one build that used just that. Pipe that size, unless you find it free, is Very expensive even for short sections (which they won't sell you unless it's scrap). Also, pipe of sufficient size has probably 1"+ thick walls. Even routed out it's going to be very heavy. Doing it over I'd either make a stainless drum, having the end pieces cut with a laser or water jet, or do the melted PVC thing shown several posts above.

      Due to a screw-up on my part, my drum isn't properly aligned with its matching inlet port and would be a real pain to fix. It was so much work building it the first time that I don't feel motivated to tear into it. The offset causes the sliding seal to not work quite right, such that some algae makes its way around the screen. I haven't worried about it until now, but a shower filter is being considered. As far as I can tell, anything short of really clean water's going to result in the shower media getting clogged, so I'm not sure I'm there currently.
      Last edited by kimini; 4 Weeks Ago at 03:25 PM.

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