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  • Results 1 to 18 of 18

    Thread: Pond leaking, setup temporary tank, etc....

    1. #1
      dannyk58 is offline Junior Member
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      Pond leaking, setup temporary tank, etc....

      Hello,

      I have inherited a small pond two years ago, appx 700-800 when full, but has been leaking for two years, owners were cheap and used a plastic mesh type liner and a horrible job building the structure. Now the leak has gone dramatic (manageable before), it must be in the bottom or near so my water level goes down to about 10".
      Stats: Texas, so a lot of flip flop temperatures now, water temp the other day was 41, but will rise to 50+ easily with warmer days in forecast.

      4 medium sized koi, and approximately 15 goldfish.

      I use Pond Prime constantly as a de-chlor when adding water, and a fliter with de-chlor filter with carbon etc...also add bacteria.

      Bio filter by Laguna and pump, just sits in pond and goes to a waterfall.

      I just purchased a 4000 gal aerator and placed in pond as I knew I would need for temporary housing to fix pond.

      Sorry for the length but I would like to do this painless for the fish and myself, I need to setup a temporary house, which I am going to get a 170-300 gal metal cattle trough and use. My plan is to pump the little existing pond water into it, add the aerator, and put in the Laguna pump with hoses going to the biofilter and let it dump back in.

      Then rebuild my pond with a concrete/mortar base, do a spray in coating.

      I mainly want to know what to do with the temporary and if I can get by with the smaller tank of 170 gallons?
      Is my plan to pump the existing water into it ok? Do I need to heat or just let it go? I have a complete water test kit. Also when I start pumping from main pond into temp tank, I will have to move fish immediately into temp tank as the main will not have any water in it. Or should I just use Pond Prime and add tap water into temp?

      I will investigate how to setup the main pond after rebuild. I am budget limited and respect the what I should have vs what I can afford. Right now I cannot afford any of this (****** that previous owner was a cheapskate), but will buy a temp tank, and rebuild the pond to the best of my ability. I will make it larger at appx 1000-1200 gallons (there is no more room than this).

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    2. #2
      koiman1950's Avatar
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      With that many fish, I would honestly suggest you get at least a 300gal container. 500 gal would even be better. The more water volume the more dilution of ammonia, etc. You will most likely need to change water every 2-3 days at least and that's with not feeding them while they're in qt.
      Mike

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    3. #3
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      Like mike is saying: at least the 300 gallon tank because of your fish load.

      Possibly on Craigslist or the like and hold on to it until the heat of Summer then resell it. I suspect you can get all your money back from the tank that way.

      Remember that depth adds gallonage. I have seen a few ponds that are as deep as wide or long. 1200 or 2000 gallons is virtually the same cost of equipment and maintenance IMHO. The extra water volume will keep the pond at a more consistent temperature down there in Texas through out the year as you have noted.

    4. #4
      icu2's Avatar
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      Welcome to Koiphen!

      I've never been a big fan of the galvanized metal containers either, but they make plastic stock tanks of the same
      size... or there's a lot of small swimming pools made by Intex and others that can make great temporary homes.
      --Steve



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    5. #5
      dannyk58 is offline Junior Member
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      yes, thanks, but i don't even know where to find a swimming pool now. I really need to do this quickly and stock tanks are quick. The plastics are all small.

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      really change the water? The pond now is so small and never had a water change, even when leaking there were times it would not leak for weeks in the beginning. Plus the original owner had over 85 fish in there at one time. My ammonia always tests zero. But are you saying the stock tank will build it up? I am not feeding when the water temp is below 50. I won't have the resources or water to change every two or three days. Man anyone want some koi? Think it would be easier to give them away, rebuild the pond and restock later.

    7. #7
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by dannyk58 View Post
      yes, thanks, but i don't even know where to find a swimming pool now. I really need to do this quickly and stock tanks are quick. The plastics are all small.
      https://www.walmart.com/ip/Intex-10-...2cwztKo1qdprHg

      They can have it to you in just a few days with free shipping.
      --Steve



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    8. #8
      dannyk58 is offline Junior Member
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      well that is cheap enough, I don't even have a 10' round spot, well barely. So if I get this do I just put Pond Prime and tap water? No need for biofilter? Just add my aerator?

    9. #9
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      If the repairs are going to be done within a few days, you can probably get by without a filter. Since you already have a filter in the pond, it is already cycled to handle most of the bio load, pond liner providing the rest, using it in the tank will 1.) keep the filter cycled, and 2.) process most of the ammonia being generated and then can be moved back to the pond when the liner is complete and fish are returned.

      I would look into the use of EPDM liner instead of the spray in liner. There are some installers that do a good job with a version of spray in liner, but there are many failures by others, and the price is very high, comparatively.
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    10. #10
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      if you are in Houston Texas, You are welcome to check my pond. I used EPDM liner. 8000 gallon pond.
      Tony

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    11. #11
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      thanks, that is what I planned, to leave the biofilter in it's place and run hoses to the temporary tank along with the aerator. Really I read up on the spray on at another place and nothing but good reviews, but I see your point. After I talked with the spray in manufacturer, it takes away the reason I wanted to use it which was I have a water fall and top cap of stones above my existing liner. I was hoping to leave the waterfall alone with the spray on, but they told me the spray on needs to "wrap" over the wall like an EPDM so rain or water doesn't get behind it which can ruin the spray liner. My plan is to redo the whole floor and sides with a mortar lining to create a smooth surface for any liner to be placed over to eliminate any sharp edging or poking. AND since I do it myself, I project this to take months. So the fish will be living in a fish RV for a while. haha.

    12. #12
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      thanks Tony, I am in the Austin area.

    13. #13
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      what do you think about this one? I have room for this and it is more water capacity than my pond has now. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Summer-Wa...ystem/48745808

    14. #14
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      The only drawback to that air ring style of pool is the air ring can develop a leak and the side collapse. The steel side pools are not as likely to fail.
      Zone 7 A/B
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      Richard

    15. #15
      dannyk58 is offline Junior Member
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      thanks Rich Toy Box, dare I ask how you know they will leak? haha.

    16. #16
      icu2's Avatar
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      I've used those too and actually the ring can deflate and they'll still stay upright as long as they're not moved
      much at all and it's not filled too full... but the fish have a tendency to hide on the bottom and in the very outer
      perimeter so you can't see them. And it's almost impossible to plumb through the side because of the angle. The
      ring usually is the first thing that gets a hole and loses air. I constantly fought to keep it inflated and the little extra
      for the metal framed one I thought was well worth the price.
      --Steve



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    17. #17
      dannyk58 is offline Junior Member
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      thanks will order one now, do you think I need to pump what little bit of pond water I have into it or just use new city water and add Pond Prime to dechlorinate along with it's other benefits?

    18. #18
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      I wouldn't waste any of the pond water, but the use of all new water would be acceptable. If the pump and filter are in the pond, I would move them to the pool for maintenance of water quality. You will still need to test to be sure that the water quality is good, as much of the filtration is on the walls of the pond, and in other surfaces exposed to the pond water.
      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

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