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  • Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
    Results 21 to 40 of 193

    Thread: Semi - indoor pond build plan

    1. #21
      icu2's Avatar
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      I listened to it again and I miss spoke when I said 10,000 gph over the waterfall... I have about 6000 gph going through the 4 tprs and
      and 4000 gph going to the lower pond basin, and then another 2000 gph coming from the upper pond overflow to the lower pond.

      For what it's worth...

      https://youtu.be/YwMECf2CO5c
      --Steve



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    2. #22
      medicine2 is offline Senior Member
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      @steve,

      The more input and questions being asked towards the design, the better the improvements will be
      So keep up the reviews and questioning.


      Now... I have a pond builder visited the site yesterday.
      Their portfolio is pretty good and already acknowledged in the hobby ring.

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      They listened carefully of what I have to show at the design pictures, what I said, what I asked for.

      The pond artist pointed out some suggestions on how it is best to :
      1. A huge central BD is still better at my application as it sweeps in most of the bottom area.
      2. Utilize the space by the side of the well, but still within the same rows of other chambers so all will be side to side.
      Use it as vortex or settlement with mechanical combo tank. More filtration on allowable and available space for cheap.
      3. Add the bakki into 4 tiers instead of 3 tiers. 120 into 150cm increase in total height.
      Better function and aesthetics when compared to the scale of main pond.
      A simple wall height increase and steel bars reduction will do the trick for not-so-much budget.

      All renovation and finishing quoted for just under 4000 bucks (filter media and pump not included).


      So here is what i came up with (yes... yes... another re-draw )

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    3. #23
      medicine2 is offline Senior Member
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      To control flow and water level at various height, adjusting to flow, filter resistance and such I intend to incorporate the principles of a reverse sluice gate at all chamber connections.

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      Lets see if I can come up with something simple and plausible to build for the application to filter chambers.

    4. #24
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      Okay... hereee you go...

      I Adjusted that each of the chambers now divided by thinner separator.

      At the top of this concrete separator, there is a 30cm cutaway.
      Into this cutaway I intend to make grooves and install 3 pieces of 10 x 50 cm glass/acrylic/PVC planks 10 - 12 mm thick or so.

      I can adjust water level of the system - on each of the chambers by taking 1, 2 or 3 pieces of the planks altogether, or taking none at all.
      It works just like simple sluice gate on traditional waterways and irrigation canals.

      Now I can have the system having a lot of tolerance towards changes in water level, flow rate and filter material restriction altogether.
      And as a bonus the filter material can be better tightly packed neatly, because any major uneven-ness of filter media restriction will cause a major drop in its efficiency, for water will want to flow more on the crannies of least resistance.

      I can use materials such as PVC sheet or even 12mm glass panes from recycling ground (cheap mode) as deflector panel. The same goes to the sluice gate planks.

      What do you think?

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    5. #25
      icu2's Avatar
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      You are getting really good with that Sketch Up program!

      Honestly it looks a little complicated but it probably would do a great job if you can get the panels to lock in. How would the
      deflector panels attach?

      For me, 3 or 4 110mm pipes between each compartment seems easier to deal with and if they're placed low and diverted with
      fittings inside the container for up or down flow, I think it'd be easier to construct.

      But hey, that's why we each build our own design, right?! I can't tell you how many people told me not to do my lower pond the way
      I did... but it's mine.
      --Steve



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    6. #26
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      What i am so worried about is the flaw of pipe and fittings design itself.
      How bad would be the flaw, I can only guess.

      The issue im affraid about is how water flow much more towards the path of least resistance.

      Here is an illustration on how things might flow :

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      Filter media is being supported by strained plastic tray shown in black. And sometimes it is not easy to fill filter media (depending on what material we use) all the spaces.
      The space between the pipes, having no filter media stuck in them, will have the most least flow resistance.
      So water will want to flow through there more than through the media, resulting the brighter side of the filter media shown with red strikethrough to be least working as water is likely to flow less through it.

      I can always block some of the tray under the pipes to reduce this effect, but only for a meager part, because at some point water will flow back to the empty space between the pipes to flow to the least resistance.


      I intended to get the deflector panels locked in by having the concrete made with a 2cm groove to slide in. Then some sealant will be applied as well to lock them in position.
      Same goes with the sluice gates, but with no sealant because they need to be movable in and out for fine tuning over different conditions of filter resistance and water flow rate.



      For comparison, when resistance is even out :

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      The flow will be forced evenly trough the filter media, with the most dirty and clogged up part more to the bottom, perfect for backwashing.
      Just drain the chamber while hosing down from the top of the media, it will be cleaner.
      Last edited by medicine2; 03-17-2016 at 09:59 PM.

    7. #27
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      I use suspended media and sometimes forget everyone doesn't use the same.
      --Steve



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    8. #28
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      @steve,

      I will also use suspended media on the first chamber.
      I plan to set so the first chamber will also fit to house retrofit RDF if future keeping demands so.


      Anyways, the preparation to dismember the pond is beginning soon.
      I collected out all of the test-out tosai I got from a local koi specialty store for 15 bucks some 2 months ago.
      They are mainly second grade culled tosai, but at such a young age i think it is still all about gamble as these, at least to my untrained eye are bang for the buck as learner koi.

      So far so good, they grow quickly and bulked up nicely.
      Fat babies... good sign

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      Now is the time to house them at my other pond along with the older residents.

    9. #29
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      Tearing down the pond... at end of 1st day.

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      It was quite well-built with steel rebar and full concrete constuction as I found out tearing part of the wall and all of the floor.
      Too bad the builder does not master some dregree of pond/swimming pool building know-how.

      I have a good idea of still casting the space next to the well chamber and leave it with some plumbing as a dry pit.
      Any possible future RDF can be housed in it. yet I still preserve close to half of total system volume worth in filter space alone.
      Speaking the possibility of slightly higher density population or superior filtration
      Last edited by medicine2; 04-04-2016 at 09:43 AM.

    10. #30
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      Tear it down... dig it.. dig it..

      Aaaaand... daaang.... unseen problem started to get unearthed
      The old owner of the house built plate-type foundation for the wall.
      Very, very old school and unpredicted, I mean no one build foundation this way for maybe 3-4 decades back.

      Oh well, all has been teared apart, I will just continue on making 2 staged depth for this pond. Cant turn back now.

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      Man, I tell you...
      These 2 digger gentlemen specialist work like mole rats digging burrow... manual way.
      Just a couple of days and the rough shape is already there.

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    11. #31
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      Excavation work is almost done... maybe just days away from plotting the plumbing, concrete casting and such.

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    12. #32
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      can't wait to see this pond in action when you're done! Where will you be placing the pump and what type of pump are you using to bring the water up to the shower? Any ball valve to adjust volume? Is there a need for water softener in your area?

    13. #33
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      Our local water parameter (swings 1-2 points during rainy or dry season):

      kH : 6-7
      gH : 8-10

      I guess we have medium hardness water. Doesnt have to use softener or adding coral/oyster shell?

      I intend to combine airlift for circulation from filter to pond and conventional pump for bakki as well as extra current in main pond.
      150watt tsurumi will do the job just fine, and I must use ball valve to fine tune the amount of flow going to the bakki, allowing just the rest to flow directly into the main pond.
      Last edited by medicine2; 04-12-2016 at 12:03 PM.

    14. #34
      icu2's Avatar
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      Great progress!

      That's crazy that he's in there without shoes on.
      --Steve



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    15. #35
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      Well, the guy is doing digging and demolition for his livelihood and originates from a rural area in island of Java called "Sindang".

      Most of demolition and digging folks around here are Sindangs, and very well known for their stamina, endurance, rate of work and most of all their somewhat resistance to debris and rubble.
      Hence going barefoot is a daily thing for the folks. If you may consider, folks from "kung-fu" village.

      Anyways their job is almost done. More than 6 truckloads had been unearthed.
      Tomorrow will be the day to measure things and making building material shopping list.

    16. #36
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      Thanks for the pictures!!
      V

    17. #37
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      Laying out plumbing and marking the space with marking strings..

      You can already note the backwash drains and the main bottom drain allocated at center of pond.

      Next : steel bars, more ground prep

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    18. #38
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      Steel rebar and casting concrete to the bottom.

      Next will be concrete casting to all the walls and more steel rebar all around.

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    19. #39
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      Great progress!
      --Steve



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      What about running the BDs and skimmers to one or more sieves and them pump to the top of a shower stack. If you don't want the sound of a shower, then go sieve to single large fluid bed to pond. No need for lots of expensive filter chambers of matting cartridges.
      Last edited by MCAsan; 04-19-2016 at 10:50 AM.

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