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  • Results 1 to 15 of 15

    Thread: Bakki Shower Build

    1. #1
      johnhubbs is offline Senior Member
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      Bakki Shower Build

      I have attached at document I created detailing my Bakki Shower build.
      I have used ideals from others and stated so in document. If someone
      feels I am using their intellectual property, please notify me and I will change
      as needed.
      Admins, if you feel this post is not appropriate, please notify me and I will make
      changes or remove as you see fit.
      Regards, John...
      Attached Images Attached Images

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    2. #2
      MCAsan is offline Senior Member
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      You can use the half high trays to build a water distribution box and save a couple of bucks. Looks like the stacks many of us built around 10 years ago from those crates. My gray stack lasted many years in the sun. Eventually I replaced it with a stainless steel stack.

    3. #3
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      Nice document, thanks for sharing!

      Cheryl

    4. #4
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      Thanks for the step by step instructions! Makes it easy peasy for us.

    5. #5
      DangerDave is offline Senior Member
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      What is the min required micron screen for the water that feeds into a bakki shower?

    6. #6
      johnhubbs is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by DangerDave View Post
      What is the min required micron screen for the water that feeds into a bakki shower?
      DangerDave,
      I don't know. I have the standard 300 micron screen in my Cetus Sieves feeding showers. Output from sieves feeds suction side of pumps and water flows through 3 bead filters in parallel before hitting bakki showers.
      Water is pretty clean before it hits bakki showers...

    7. #7
      johnhubbs is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by MCAsan View Post
      You can use the half high trays to build a water distribution box and save a couple of bucks. Looks like the stacks many of us built around 10 years ago from those crates. My gray stack lasted many years in the sun. Eventually I replaced it with a stainless steel stack.
      MCAsan,
      I looked at ordering two of the shallow trays for distribution box, but received a quantity discount when ordering deeper trays, so price was the same (had to order 3 or more for price break). I like symetry too. LOL

    8. #8
      Paultergeist is offline Senior Member
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      That was very-nicely detailed and put together, John. Thank you for sharing it with others.

    9. #9
      icu2's Avatar
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      Great post John, thanks!
      I'm going to move your thread to the DIY forum as it is for "start to finish" type DIY projects and will hopefully be able to
      be found in the future more easily.
      --Steve



      Koiphen 2021 Koi Person of the Year!

    10. #10
      Malugul is offline Senior Member
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      How did u calculate how many holes to drill or the size and spacing of the holes. Thx

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    11. #11
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      I've come up with a formula that works good ,after trial and error, and after throwing away a lot of PVC.
      I drill (40) 1/4" holes for every 1000 GPH. To figure spacing, I just divide the number of holes needed into the total length of pipe in the spray bar.
      I like to make multiple rows rather than one single row down the center, insures better coverage.
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      A continuous loop will give even pressure throughout the entire spray bar
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      Better than one with dead ends
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    12. #12
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      Great tinkers came to the same conclusion.

      I wasn't building a spray bar but I needed a manifold design that will distribute water evenly. I also went with a continuous loop design in the end.

    13. #13
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      That loop is also a must for an air manifold too....

      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

    14. #14
      jaycee is offline Member
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      Thanks, I followed the guide however made a poor mistake.

      I assumed the air intakes were 1" holes. And drilled them in the same spots as yours. It's slightly too big and it's not able to seal because of the raised plastic edges not allowing the fittings to squueze in there.

      Your fittings for the air intakes are clearly 3/4 inch, which wasn't mentioned explicitly.. and fit nicely tucked into the slots.. my 1" does not :P My stak paks were pricy, and leak slightly because of this.

    15. #15
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      This is a very old thread, and I have not built one of these, but perhaps you can glue in a pipe plug from the inside and move the hole up or down enough to drill new access points?

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