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  • Results 1 to 7 of 7

    Thread: Re: Spa blower on birdman filter

    1. #1
      Jojoartie's Avatar
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      Re: Spa blower on birdman filter

      Is a check valve required on the spa blower? I dont see one on the sticky but wasnt sure that some water might jump back up the pipe when you turn the blower off.
      Thanks,
      Jo

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    2. #2
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      No, I don't use a check valve, and I have not heard of anyone else doing so.

      I do think it is a good idea to have the air manifold pipe sticking up at least 10" above the rim of the barrel...that helps keep the water from backing up until there is considerable pressure going through the "sand" in it, and it gives you the cue then to clean it by overflowing the taller center pipe. Otherwise, it overflows in just a day or two when there is just a little bit of pressure built up...but the filter really doesn't have to be cleaned yet, so it is a pre-mature signal. I also think it can splash water up and over the side of the barrel, leading to some water loss, if the overflow is too vigorous.

      I've never had the water come back up the pipe into the spa blower, but again, mine is about 12-14" above the surface when it is set on top of the air manifold pipe.
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    3. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jojoartie View Post
      Is a check valve required on the spa blower? I dont see one on the sticky but wasnt sure that some water might jump back up the pipe when you turn the blower off.
      Thanks,
      Jo
      Last winter, when I had heavy rains and hadn't flushed mine for a while, the pressure was causing a geyser from the manifold pipe. A check valve would be cheap insurance from flooding the blower.

    4. #4
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      Water will come out the air blower stand pipe when the filter need flushing. Just remove the air blower and cap the stand pipe when not flushing.

    5. #5
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      I dont intend on leaving the blower attached. I currently have a cap on the stand pipe. When i remove the cap, the water does flow over the top of the standpipe. The standpipe is not as high as the waterline out to the pond side so im guessing that is why this happens. When i open the waste side to flush it im guessing the water will no longer come out the top because the water level will drop below the top of the standpipe. I was going to attach a piece of pvc pipe to the blower then use a fernco coupling to attach that to the standpipe to use the blower. (So standpipe-fernco coupling-pvc pipe-blower). I dont anticipate water flowing up the standpipe, past the fernco and up towards the blower since water usually wants to seak the path of least resistance. I just didnt know if there is a kickback effect once the blower is shut off. Am i missing anything on the technical side here?

    6. #6
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jojoartie View Post
      I dont intend on leaving the blower attached. I currently have a cap on the stand pipe. When i remove the cap, the water does flow over the top of the standpipe. The standpipe is not as high as the waterline out to the pond side so im guessing that is why this happens. When i open the waste side to flush it im guessing the water will no longer come out the top because the water level will drop below the top of the standpipe. I was going to attach a piece of pvc pipe to the blower then use a fernco coupling to attach that to the standpipe to use the blower. (So standpipe-fernco coupling-pvc pipe-blower). I dont anticipate water flowing up the standpipe, past the fernco and up towards the blower since water usually wants to seak the path of least resistance. I just didnt know if there is a kickback effect once the blower is shut off. Am i missing anything on the technical side here?
      The part in red is what I'm not sure about... so the air pipe top is below the output of the s/g filter?

      The air pipe needs to be above the outlet. The air/stand pipe will overflow when it's easier for the filter to flow out the pipe than go through the layers of
      media... i.e., it's time to clean!
      But the air pipe shouldn't be below the level of the output of the filter either... easy enough to fix with a slip fitting and a little more pipe if need be.

      Last edited by icu2; 06-15-2015 at 09:38 PM.
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    7. #7
      Appliance Guy's Avatar
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      I have two S/G's on main pond. Instead of having the standpipe run through the media, I simply installed a bulkhead on the bottom of each drum and this line goes to a permanently mounted Maxx 2hp blower. Each drum has a ball valve. When it comes time for flushing, I simply open the waste drain and cap off the return to pond. I have two valves installed at the blower. The lower valve is a bleed off as well as tuning. I find the 2hp to be a tad overkill, and I could have used a smaller hp, but it was only $10 more for the 2hp over the 1hp. Figured since the electrical cost is negligible might as well more...

      I like having the air manifold line coming from underneath. It allows more media and it's convenient servicing by having the blower permanently mounted. I also use platic water heater pans as a lid. I find I get substantially less larvae (midge, dragonfly, mosquito) with a lid and of course no tree litter.

      Here's a old pic. It shows 2 lines on the drums, and this did not bode well, so I replaced with 3" lines for the returns.

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      Tim can always be reached at 850-380-7824 or timnye850@gmail.com

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