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  • Results 1 to 11 of 11

    Thread: Koi Fry Growth Rate?

    1. #1
      kimmi's Avatar
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      Koi Fry Growth Rate?

      So my koi spawned almost two weeks ago

      And I have them in two 55 gallon tanks so I can monitor them. My question is can anyone give me some information about how big they get during a certain week #?

      I'm new to keeping koi fry so I'd love more information thank you
      Last edited by kimmi; 05-30-2015 at 01:44 AM.

    2. #2
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      My fry are 20 days old and most are about 5/8" long and got a little belly



    3. #3
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      If you want to get quicker results heat the tank to 26c -30c and feed on a drip decapsulated brine shrimp eggs as these will be more nutritious as they have not used any energy hatching so a better diet rich in protein but you will need more water changes ,10-20% per day in the first two weeks ! .
      plus adding yeast every 4 days ,fast action bakers yeast ,and a culture of insuforia ,brown banana skins and lettuce brown is best !.
      and you should get them to 1 inch in two weeks and feeding crushed silkworm pupae .
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      Last edited by wayne1; 05-31-2015 at 09:16 AM.

    4. #4
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      good luck on your babies delbert hope to see some pictures!

      hi again wayne! thanks for replying with such great information again. i'll do some research on the brine shrimp drip but i might not have capacity in my home to do that. but your set up looks awesome! the baby fish look great too! i'm a bit shock they can even go to an inch in two weeks

    5. #5
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      Hi Kimmi
      Yes this is extreme but koi are little pigs if you feed them with the right foods ,in the first few weeks liquid feeds and soaked decapsulated brine shrimp eggs !,a drip is only advisable if you want to stop tobies and loss of good fish ,but this starts with the spawn to start with and water is number one !.
      If you use extremely soft water there is no risk of high mortality rates as you heat the water as there will be no ammonia to worry about ,also eggs hatched and kept in soft water will swell twice there size and even from small young females will do extremely well ,also the egg will harden up better giving a better shell to fend off fungi !,also if pan spawned you won't have much dead eggs so less fungi to start ,so its all on parent fish and fertile rates ,and condition of the brood fish and how they are fed before spawning ,then also cleaning of brood fish before spawning as they can carry pathogens and parasites that kill fry in the early stages ,and can kill off the whole spawn .
      You have the capacity to feed decapsulated brine shrimp as it doe's not have to be on a drip you can feed it manually by rehydrating with your fry tank water ! but will need to feed at least every four hours ,so a simple drip bottle with a air stone in it to keep eggs in suspension and stop blockages in the drip tube -airline to tank !all made with a soda bottle suspended on wire hanging from a above the fry tank its that simple and saves time and simple to make !.
      Your brood fish should be removed and placed in a spawning vat or pond ,and treated before spawn with malachite Green for 48 hours this will clean them from any problems transferring to cause problems for fry later ,if selective spawning and natural spawns .

    6. #6
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      Kimmi,
      I took Waynes advice to heat up the tank for last years fry and it helped greatly. I also fed manually decapsulated brine shrimp. (hydrated). This process really did keep the mortality rate very low and almost no tobies. The growth rate was not as good as Waynes, but it was the best progress I've ever seen in my tanks. Keep experimenting with Waynes suggestions, as it is a lot of information to understand and process, but it works great. Keep us updated.

      Steve

    7. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by dragonfly1976 View Post
      Kimmi,
      I took Waynes advice to heat up the tank for last years fry and it helped greatly. I also fed manually decapsulated brine shrimp. (hydrated). This process really did keep the mortality rate very low and almost no tobies. The growth rate was not as good as Waynes, but it was the best progress I've ever seen in my tanks. Keep experimenting with Waynes suggestions, as it is a lot of information to understand and process, but it works great. Keep us updated.

      Steve
      Hi Also I would like to add I heat my fry to 92f and up to 96f for three days and up to 7 days this sounds extreme but its done with pure oxygen pumped in via air stones this immunizes the koi fry against cold and survival rates in cold winters are then better this is a old Polish way of rearing Carp and works very well ,also weak koi are eliminated early
      and also all my fry are raised for two weeks in large aquariums where I can see the progress easily in a glass tank so culling is easy and effective over the past 46 years I have been breeding koi ,this gives quick and fast culling and accurate results ,and no time is wasted on rearing non conforming fry ,so culled fish are placed in a Ice bucket and put on my vegetable patch for fertilizer ! or fed to tropical fish as feeder fish !,nothing is wasted and eco friendly !.
      They may seem extreme but when dealing with 10-12 million fry the water quality is number one and over crowding can bring about disease so quick Hard & fast effective culling is needed and numbers must be quickly reduced to 1% target for scaled fish and 5% for Doitsu fish produced ,and this helps keep a safe environment and strong fry to grow on as water quality is Number one in all for breeding koi as things can and will go bad quickly if not managed well ,and that's 24/7 every day as is culling for every day for three months ! ,and great results can be achieved ,feeding and maintence go hand in hand and siphoning waste from tank floors is done every day ! yeast will help reduce this and maintained insuforia levels to help fry grow better as the tendency is to over filter water by hobbyists fry actually do well with no filters at all and a small bio sponge filter added later ,as they need plankton around them 24/7 as they are a plankton feeder naturally ,that's why they have two sets of barbless to detect it and nostrils to smell it out even at a young age that's why you need if feeding decapsulated brine shrimp eggs ,a drip tank or bottle with air stones to keep the food in suspension is better for growth results ,also having insuforia topped up with yeast and lettuces and brown banana skins in the actual fry tank will help maintain extra food 24 hours ,this will give the fry a better start and a stronger better fry is a result with natural foods ,but you have to consider you have to control this as well as yeast will bring bad bacteria also ,and plankton will come bad plankton naturally occurring so salt is added after the heating immunization process to help relive stress this is added before switching off heat at 86f -32c at 0.5ozs per gallon
      and next morning fry are then placed out into fry ponds at no more than 20 degrees window drop so 86f -no more than 64f so a window of 20 degrees ,but its best when weather has broken and a less difference and is in the 75 f range 10 degree range .
      This is a old method but works well also this helps against white spot - (ICK ) Out breaks to fry and actually works better than MG treatments as the high heat and salt will dehydrate this parasite as the salinity raises with temperature increase .
      So then they are also switched on to feeding and growth rate is better in a stew pond full of plankton and with only air stones ,no filtration at all !,cleaning only done by adding yeast every 4 days !.
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      Last edited by wayne1; 06-03-2015 at 05:19 AM.

    8. #8
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      wow thanks all! I'm really looking forward to trying to get these lil guys to grow even more now! I did my first cull today. was very hard but I had to repeatedly tell myself it was for the greater good.

      i'm going to try to think of a way to do that brine shrimp drip but space is so limited for these little "piggies" inside my home.

      I would love to eventually learn how to strip fish of their eggs and milt. sometimes i feel natural spawns are too damaging - granted so is stripping if done incorrectly. but it breaks my heart to see that my poor mama has lost many scales and looks like it is developing into an ulcer all from spawning! no fear - we are currently treating her! however i'd rather strip the most beautiful females instead of having them bashed in losing scales and becoming prone to bacteria and ulcers. thoughts? or am i just being demanding of my fish for babies due to wanting to hopefully raise some beautiful fry...

    9. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimmi View Post
      wow thanks all! I'm really looking forward to trying to get these lil guys to grow even more now! I did my first cull today. was very hard but I had to repeatedly tell myself it was for the greater good.

      i'm going to try to think of a way to do that brine shrimp drip but space is so limited for these little "piggies" inside my home.

      I would love to eventually learn how to strip fish of their eggs and milt. sometimes i feel natural spawns are too damaging - granted so is stripping if done incorrectly. but it breaks my heart to see that my poor mama has lost many scales and looks like it is developing into an ulcer all from spawning! no fear - we are currently treating her! however i'd rather strip the most beautiful females instead of having them bashed in losing scales and becoming prone to bacteria and ulcers. thoughts? or am i just being demanding of my fish for babies due to wanting to hopefully raise some beautiful fry...
      Hi Kimmi
      if you are pushed for space and only have a few thousand or hundreds of fry just mix Topless shrimp (decapsulated BS) with water 10mins before you feed it and just pour it around the tank ,it has the advantage on a drip that if fed around the clock tobies will be non existent but you will have to change water more as this food is 58% protein ! and its worth remembering that the more protein = more Ammonia by-product ,so have a plan and a regular clean each week but don't clean sponge filters to often ! say every two weeks and have at least two and clean alternate weeks to keeping a good bio ,a sweet smelling earthy smell like a sack of potatoes is a good sign Bio action in your sponge filters are doping well and a sweet smell from the water as soon as you slide back or lift the tank lid !,if you smell ammonia coming off air stones you know water changes are needed more and more !,also as they grow thin out and size grade ,and keep sizes to separate tanks ,as the constant keep up with food will diminish and bigger sizes will come especially with certain types like Chagoi ,ki goi ,Ochibas ,sora goi ,Asagi ,and many Jumbo lines of koi .
      And you will always get some jumbo turn up in most spawns ,culling will help keep it all in check !.
      Also always treat koi after spawning with salt and Acriflavine if damage has taken place ,especially with eggs around fungi can invade cuts and skin that's broken ! causing you bigger problems later down the line ,good luck with your breeding .

    10. #10
      niceshowa is offline Senior Member
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      Just follow the advice Wanye1 gives you, it is based on 40 years of koi breeding so it works! Simple.

    11. #11
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      Dear Wayne1, may I please ask why add yeast ? Thanks loads

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