• Amused
  • Angry
  • Annoyed
  • Awesome
  • Bemused
  • Cocky
  • Cool
  • Crazy
  • Crying
  • Depressed
  • Down
  • Drunk
  • Embarrased
  • Enraged
  • Friendly
  • Geeky
  • Godly
  • Happy
  • Hateful
  • Hungry
  • Innocent
  • Meh
  • Piratey
  • Poorly
  • Sad
  • Secret
  • Shy
  • Sneaky
  • Tired
  • Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
    Results 41 to 60 of 85

    Thread: Rutt Roooh ..Wags pond rebuild

    1. #41
      icu2's Avatar
      icu2 is offline Administrator ~ WWKC President
      ~ WWKC Treasurer
      is sorry otters exist
       
      Feeling:
      Annoyed
       
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Poulsbo, WA
      Posts
      32,942


      I'll be interested to see how the sump works in that configuration.
      --Steve



      Koiphen 2021 Koi Person of the Year!

      • Remove Ads
        Advertising from Google
        Promoting Koi and Pond
        keeping since 2007

         

    2. #42
      Mr Wags's Avatar
      Mr Wags is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      In a house
      Posts
      140
      Steve,
      I looked at your lower pond build thread ... Impressive ... well done! A lot of the concepts you used will be similar in my build.
      I do had some concerns so I did some tests and up to about 6' horizontal before going vertical did not seem to effect flow. Granted that was with plain water so I am still worried about settlement in the lines. The problem is changing from a liner I need to keep the depth to maintain pond volume and also allow for the depth of the new poured floor. When I dig out the bottom for the rebar work I plan on trying to get as close to the end as possible with the sump basin, but will need to maintain some slope. The two things I have to contend with is the top of the old footing is at about 5'-5 1/2' so I can not go vertical past that and the rounded ends make it a little tougher to "square up".
      Hopefully the excavation will go something like this:
      Name:  New floor slope.jpg
Views: 638
Size:  73.0 KB

      I have a Medo LA-80 for the 5 2" lift lines I hope it is enough, if not I have a Medo LA-120 but was going to use that for my moving bed.
      I do still need to source a digital recycling timer for the lift.

      Lester

    3. #43
      icu2's Avatar
      icu2 is offline Administrator ~ WWKC President
      ~ WWKC Treasurer
      is sorry otters exist
       
      Feeling:
      Annoyed
       
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Poulsbo, WA
      Posts
      32,942
      Thanks for your kind words!

      My guess is that your plan should work great. My sump comes on every few hours for about 30 seconds, so nothing
      is sitting in those pipes that long. But if they're accessible, if need be, I bet they'd be pretty easy to clear with some
      ingenuity.

      I have 8 lifts with an old, tired Dolphin AV-150, that's on it's 3rd+ year with not so much as a diaphragm change,
      and it still will dump 20-30 gallons in 30 seconds, so I bet the Medo 80 will work fine. If not, you just leave it on
      a little longer.

      My timer is one that look like these:
      http://www.amazon.com/Sentinel-Gps-D...sentinel+drt-1

      But as the review says, I think they've been discontinued... but I think there are probably even better ones now. But anything along these lines should work
      fine.
      I look forward to watching the build come together!
      --Steve



      Koiphen 2021 Koi Person of the Year!

    4. #44
      Mr Wags's Avatar
      Mr Wags is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      In a house
      Posts
      140
      Except for today it has been rainy, grey, and gloomy so not much has been done outside on the digging or block work but I have been working in the shop. I have been working on the components for my 250G S&G and my 250G MB. I got the fiberglass grate sized and cut for the S&G along with the bottom 1/4" PVC plate for the moving bed. I do still need to weld the stiffeners and drill a bunch of holes for the MB bottom PVC plate.
      Name:  DSCN5588.jpg
Views: 564
Size:  153.6 KB

      I manufacture and welded up a split air manifold for the S&G filter that had a valve so you could do half at a time. I was not happy with the design and wanted to see if I could get by with a single manifold with my 2hp blower. The second one is all welded up and I just need to test it to see if I think I am getting enough air to be able to fluidize the bed with one manifold. When the time comes I will post a vid of the test and get opinions as to what others think. I originally planned on placing the manifold below the FG grate but the 4" inlet is to high and it hits the manifold so I will have to place it on top and just pile the rock and layers over it.
      Name:  DSCN5591.jpg
Views: 566
Size:  169.4 KB
      The 2nd manifold

      Name:  DSCN5592a.jpg
Views: 562
Size:  206.3 KB
      The components

      Name:  DSCN5593.jpg
Views: 564
Size:  65.9 KB
      Assembled inside of the 250G S&G filter
      As long as the manifold works the S&G is done except for adding an addition 4" drain line for the cleaning cycle, placement, and final plumbing.

      I have also been working on a super secret airlift manifold for a friend but will not post pics as it needs to be a surprise.

      Lester
      Last edited by Mr Wags; 03-21-2014 at 07:04 PM.

    5. #45
      tsippel is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Dec 2013
      Location
      pittsburgh pa
      Posts
      818
      nice workmanship i like every thing your doing.
      i have an rdf, and sg filter is not in vain . just my opinion that extra polishing is needed and settling tank before the rdf a big plus for tds levels.
      keep it coming.

    6. #46
      Mr Wags's Avatar
      Mr Wags is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      In a house
      Posts
      140

      Air Manifold Video Test

      Here is the video test of my 250G S&G filter with a 2hp blower and 1/8" inch holes in the air manifold. I had started with 1/16" holes but that seemed to be to restrictive and create back pressure load on the blower. I am reluctant to increase the size any more past 1/8" as it looks like I am getting a pretty good even aeration across the field and the blower appears pretty close to maxed with the bleed valve closed. I believe I can get fluidization of the sand bed with one air manifold instead of the split manifold design. The aeration appears about the same now as I had with the split manifold. Water depth to the top of the manifold is 32" .....Thoughts- Opinions?




      Lester

    7. #47
      Mr Wags's Avatar
      Mr Wags is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      In a house
      Posts
      140

      Plumbing Gurus ?????

      Started digging out for the new return manifold ...

      1st Question
      Original plan was something like this..
      Name:  DSCN5597.jpg
Views: 483
Size:  132.8 KB
      I think the flows would be pretty even going this route between the three returns. Problem is it is pretty wide .. requiring a lot more digging and it will be hard to square up in the bottom being wider on the round pond end.
      So I was thinking something like this may work ???
      Name:  DSCN5598.jpg
Views: 480
Size:  132.3 KB
      A lot narrower but will I be restricting the flow on the center return going this route?

      2nd Question
      I have regular 2" long electrical sweeps going through the block as the angle is better for the penetration, I could use the wide radius to get less restriction but that would require a lot more fitting, cutting, slotting the block wall to get them in ...is it worth it?

      This will be the gravity floor return on the 10K shower circuit

      Thanks, Lester

    8. #48
      koiman1950's Avatar
      koiman1950 is offline Supporting Member
      is semi retired
       
      Feeling:
      Tired
       
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      San Jose, Ca
      Posts
      19,244
      Well, to answer your first question some - the second, narrower design would restrict the flow to the center outlet.

      To the last question - as you're planning to flow 10000gph through this, I would suggest 4" plumbing, utilizing the same 3way ABS wye in place of the PVC Tee. I would then reduce at the outlets to the tprs to 3" as opposed to 2". This will afford less restriction and possible backup of water in the bottom of the shower unit. This would still provide you with 3500gph roughly through each return which is going to give you some seriously bottom current.
      Mike

      check out our website at: http://www.pond-life.net




      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

    9. #49
      KoiKid55 is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Apr 2013
      Location
      Sherborn MA
      Posts
      773
      Thats alot of air lol
      Well I messed that one up
      BULKHEAD Y U NO WORK



      Music Makes Life Kenny Chesney Zac Brow Skrilex Enimem


    10. #50
      icu2's Avatar
      icu2 is offline Administrator ~ WWKC President
      ~ WWKC Treasurer
      is sorry otters exist
       
      Feeling:
      Annoyed
       
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Poulsbo, WA
      Posts
      32,942
      I'd agree with Mike on the first question... you'll get less out of the center.

      And it won't flow 10,000gph. It'll overflow the shower if that's the only return.

      My shower flows about that and with 4 - 2" returns, it'll only flow about 2/3rds max. I have the rest going
      to the waterfall via another 4" return from the shower. Here's how I did mine if it'll help... each leg has the
      exact same fittings to try and even out the flow between the 4 returns.
      Attached Images Attached Images   
      --Steve



      Koiphen 2021 Koi Person of the Year!

      • Remove Ads
        Advertising from Google
        Promoting Koi and Pond
        keeping since 2007

         

    11. #51
      Mr Wags's Avatar
      Mr Wags is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      In a house
      Posts
      140

      Official member of the MPP club

      Well I have become a full time, card carrying member of the Motley Pond Procrastinators Club ...
      Purchased a new scope.
      I have finalized most of the planning, final design issues, sourcing and purchasing the items need to push to the finishing stage.
      I have gotten some fabrication of mechanical items that have needed to be done like....

      Name:  DSCN5622.jpg
Views: 411
Size:  134.7 KB
      Welded up and fabricated the return manifold I decided to go with. (6" into 4" into the three 3" returns)

      Name:  DSCN5628.jpg
Views: 414
Size:  185.4 KB
      Almost have drilled all the holes in the 250G MB lower media strainer plate (only have about a thousand to go )"

      Name:  DSCN5624.jpg
Views: 417
Size:  53.2 KB
      Manufactured the 4" inlet line strainer for the 250G MB, this will keep the media from back flowing into the inlet line.

      Name:  DSCN5626.jpg
Views: 473
Size:  46.5 KB
      The lower media strainer plate will sit below the inlet line strainer and just above the angle where it breaks for the coned bottom.

      Name:  DSCN5629.jpg
Views: 412
Size:  110.1 KB
      Also have been helping a friend with manufacturing some of his pond items like this three 3" single airlift manifold.

      Lester

    12. #52
      Mr Wags's Avatar
      Mr Wags is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      In a house
      Posts
      140
      Finished Powerman's triple Airlift
      Name:  DSCN5636.jpg
Views: 362
Size:  90.6 KB

      PP'd and started soaking my old K1/Biochips... did about half of them (6 CuF) so I can seed the pond moving bed when done. Ammonia has been running about 4-5 with peeing in it ever other night
      (sorry no pics of me peeing) should get a pretty good bio colony cooking off and the best thing is I don't have to worry about ammonia harming the fish.
      Name:  DSCN5639.jpg
Views: 357
Size:  134.6 KB

      Lester

    13. #53
      Spaun is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Mi.
      Posts
      591
      You have been busy. Nice craftsmanship.
      Click for Southgate, Michigan Forecast

    14. #54
      montwila's Avatar
      montwila is offline Supporting Member
      is Busy
       
      Feeling:
      Tired
       
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Location
      Auburn, WA.
      Posts
      2,357
      Finally got caught up.

      Very nicely done all the way around.

      Good to see you at Pan and put a face with the name.

      Now I just have to find time to actually talk with you. See you at Steve and Rose's Summer Party II?

    15. #55
      powerman's Avatar
      powerman is offline Supporting Member
      is Still koi keeping
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      anacortes washington
      Posts
      4,148
      good job Lester. I think I am a member of the MPP club as well...
      DAN







    16. #56
      Mr Wags's Avatar
      Mr Wags is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      In a house
      Posts
      140
      Quote Originally Posted by powerman View Post
      good job Lester. I think I am a member of the MPP club as well...
      Then I am in pretty darn good company!

    17. #57
      rbarn is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      580
      I dont put fish in your toilet so dont pee in my pond ?


      That's definitely going on a sign next to my pond .... ROFL
      Currency units are a media of exchange and not a store of wealth

    18. #58
      Cowger's Avatar
      Cowger is offline Senior Member
      is Still thinking about pond #2
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Meadow Vista, CA
      Posts
      132
      Great build! Can't wait to see how thus one turns out!

    19. #59
      asat is offline Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      Pleasant View, Utah
      Posts
      63
      Lester, I am not a concrete guy by any means - as you know I am considering a xypex concrete build using stream flow but I am wondering how you slope the floor in your plan. I know Steve ICU2 used a mono pour but his has no slope - do you have to use footings for the walls and then do a seperate pour for the sloped floor? does that create a potential leak path at the footing/floor seam? do you use forms or just rebar and shoot/trowel it?

    20. #60
      Mr Wags's Avatar
      Mr Wags is offline Senior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      In a house
      Posts
      140
      Quote Originally Posted by asat View Post
      Lester, I am not a concrete guy by any means - as you know I am considering a xypex concrete build using stream flow but I am wondering how you slope the floor in your plan. I know Steve ICU2 used a mono pour but his has no slope - do you have to use footings for the walls and then do a seperate pour for the sloped floor? does that create a potential leak path at the footing/floor seam? do you use forms or just rebar and shoot/trowel it?
      Prior to the accident it was a liner pond so the footing is already there in my case. I am going to try and avoid any cold joints by knocking out the face of the bottom course pond side that way it will flow out when I fill the block wall. The bottom then will be pumped/troweled over insulation and rebar this way it will be a monolithic pour. If I was building from scratch I probably would do it differently but don't ask me how ... I got my hands full trying to figure this redo out.

      Lester

      • Remove Ads
        Advertising from Google
        Promoting Koi and Pond
        keeping since 2007

         

    Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •