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    Thread: One shovel full at a time. Start to finnish block built pond documentary - 2013

    1. #81
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      Looks great!
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    2. #82
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      Looking good.

    3. #83
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      I had a friend come and parge my walls and cemented tile to the top of my walls (I used the metal lathe) and I cemented 8" tile to the sides of the pond walls. This was done in 2009 and no problems with coming loose or falling off. Your pond build was fun to watch and looks good.
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    4. #84
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      so to winterize i filled the water level to 5" below the bottom of the skimmer lip which is also about the same as the ground level that i am back filled up to. this gives me about 48" of water to the BD.

      my question is should i just let the pond freeze over (so far the ice is about 1" thick after a couple cold days) or should i maintain a hole in the ice (there are no fish). or is this not an issue dont worry and let it freeze solid? just wondering if this will pressurize the water under the ice from the expansion and cause an issue with the concrete? what would you do? or what have people done in this situation with no fish in a pond to winterize. i dont want to use power to keep a hole in the ice if it is not needed. my guess is any concrete pools in cold climates just let them freeze up.

      input or solutions would be appreciated. i could always just drill a hole in the ice once a week to let off the pressure if that would help.

    5. #85
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      I wonder if putting a big ball or an inner tube in the water would work? I see people do that with swimming pools.
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    6. #86
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      What's the purpose of filling with water and allowing it to freeze vs. leaving it empty like a swimming pool?
      The risk I took was calculated, but man am I bad at math!

    7. #87
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      Quote Originally Posted by Snake View Post
      I wonder if putting a big ball or an inner tube in the water would work? I see people do that with swimming pools.
      the reason for placing a ball or inter tube in a pool is for keeping the cover off the water surface..

      Quote Originally Posted by Cecil View Post
      What's the purpose of filling with water and allowing it to freeze vs. leaving it empty like a swimming pool?
      when we winterize a pool we drop the water below the skimmer and remove the pump and filter, then cover the pool.. we have never drained the entire pool.. i guess it depends on the zone you live in
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    8. #88
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      Quote Originally Posted by kwickcut View Post



      when we winterize a pool we drop the water below the skimmer and remove the pump and filter, then cover the pool.. we have never drained the entire pool.. i guess it depends on the zone you live in
      Thanks!
      The risk I took was calculated, but man am I bad at math!

    9. #89
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      well i did drain the water 6" below the skimmer and broke down and put a 200W pond heater in the corner. it is working well i have about 3" of ice on the pond and as the ice forms it pushes the water out the hole made by the heater and on top of the ice, so i am glad i am maintaining a hole in the ice to prevent pressurizing the water. haven't seen anyone have a problem iced over as long as a hole was maintained so the 200Watts is cheep insurance.

      if it was drained the footer could freeze and lift. most likely it would not lift even and my floor and walls would crack.

      I plan this to be my only winter i deal with icing over. next year it will have a greenhouse cover.
      Last edited by JLH; 12-02-2013 at 07:39 PM.

    10. #90
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    11. #91
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      Well the pond survived the worst winter here in 20 years (tested by mother nature to -22F)
      I bought an aquaforte ultrasieve iii and it is here so now it is time to drain the pond and do the BD plumbing to the sieve. I am putting the BD and the skimmer into the sieve, that will than be feed to a performance pro 7600 gal/hr pump. to my advantage 6.0 bead filter ( which i dropped unloading from my truck and put a 4" crack in it so i have so fiber glass to lay up and repair the tank) this will be for fines filtration, a Zapp 10 UV which i picked up used with the bead filter. then to a shower filter filled with cermedia.

      thats the current plan. now time to plumb it up and get busy tig welding up the SS shower trays and waterfall weir (all custom done in house )
      then time to build the deck along side and over the filter pit, then do stone vernier

      thats the game plan stay tuned as updates will becoming as i get back on this project. just waiting for the water table to receded a little more before draining the pond.

      let me know if there are any flaws in my current plan. the bead filter repair should be easy as long as i use a good epoxy resin and a bi-directional fiberglass mat should be as strong as the original.

    12. #92
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      Nice project !

    13. #93
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      finally got the pond drained an started working.
      my BD had a small crack in the threaded part that the top dome screws into. so i turned and cut down a pvc coupling in the lathe to fit over the threaded section to sleeve it and help support it better. i left it a little taller then the threaded section because it made a perfect cup to hold the O-ring that seals this connection. and will also help it seal a bit better.

      I used some 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant to mold the ends of the TPRs since there was a little gap at the face due to the first layers of polyuria being sandwiched under the face plate. i also used the 5200 to run a bead around the cut edge of polyuria on the skimmer face plate mostly to hid the gray showing from the first coats of polyuria.

      now it is time to get the ultra sieve mounted and plumbed to the bottom drain and skimmer.
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    14. #94
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      When your done can you or steve come do mine?!
      Member of KOI Clubs. Owner of KrazyKoiFish in the works


      "Live everyday like it's your last, and someday you'll be right"

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    15. #95
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      this weekend i built a $14 sump basin out of a 55 gal drum and got it installed. $10 for the drum and $4 in J bolts to help anchor it into the ground. I had to notch some concrete to get it to fit but over all i am happy with the outcome. I also have been working on getting the cleats in to mount the shelf in the filter pit that will hold up the sieve and pump. I also changed my mind about how i wanted to support the skimmer so i nocked out the cinder blocks that where holding it up for support. instead i am going to weld up some brackets out of angle iron to support it from off the wall instead of the ground to help save some room. when i nocked out the block i found a 1" long crack in the bottom of the skimmer must have been from the winter. so i sanded both sides to scuff it up and drilled an 1/8" hole on each side of the crack and sealed it with 3M 5200 on both sides. I will make sure the angle iron supports go right under the patch to help support it. and im thinking of setting the skimmer in a bed of sealant / adhesive to help support and seal the crack for good. now time to search for a good sump pump that also handles solids up to at least 1/2" im thinking. let me know if you have any suggestions.
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    16. #96
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      I have been shopping around for sump pumps and am leaning toward this one so far.
      http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

      it is 1/3 HP and 50 GPM it will handle up to 1/2" solids

      does any one have experience with this pump? it has great reviews on amazon and the price does not seam bad for what the specs on it are. open to suggestions if there is something better. I should have the space for anything in my 55 gal cut down sump.

      well back to work i have the sieve support shelf mostly done

    17. #97
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      Every step is progress!

      Not necessarily better, but here's another option... 2" solids is good so it less likely to clog, but not sure if you're
      dumping a SC into the sump barrel or what, but it's what I bought and so far has worked pretty good...

      http://www.harborfreight.com/12-hors...8451-8395.html

      Float switch isn't the best, but for $100 I didn't expect too much and it's still working.
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    18. #98
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      Quote Originally Posted by JLH View Post
      when i nocked out the block i found a 1" long crack in the bottom of the skimmer must have been from the winter. so i sanded both sides to scuff it up and drilled an 1/8" hole on each side of the crack and sealed it with 3M 5200 on both sides. I will make sure the angle iron supports go right under the patch to help support it. and im thinking of setting the skimmer in a bed of sealant / adhesive to help support and seal the crack for good. now time to search for a good sump pump that also handles solids up to at least 1/2" im thinking. let me know if you have any suggestions.
      i think over time this fix will start leaking.. i would think about using a bulkhead fitting and just insert a plug on the inside of the skimmer.. then you would not have any worries about the sealant pealing off.. just some food for thought..


      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      Every step is progress!

      Not necessarily better, but here's another option... 2" solids is good so it less likely to clog, but not sure if you're
      dumping a SC into the sump barrel or what, but it's what I bought and so far has worked pretty good...

      http://www.harborfreight.com/12-hors...8451-8395.html

      Float switch isn't the best, but for $100 I didn't expect too much and it's still working.

      i would stay away from harbor freight pumps. i had one and had to replaced it 3 times, they just dont last.. but the good thing is they replaced it every time with no questions asked..

      but the bottom line is you get what you pay for i bought Cast Iron Sewage Sump Pump and have not had any issues at all and it is on the 3rd summer and i dump over 1000 gallons once a week and about 2 to 300 gallons a day

      http://www.lowes.com/pd_240038-57366...mps&facetInfo=
      Three may keep a secret, if two of them are dead. - Benjamin Franklin.

      you cant fix stupid no matter how hard you try.

    19. #99
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      kwickcut, I would have used a bulkhead to fix it but the crack is right up against where some internal bracing is. it is sealed inside and out and the inside has the internal baffle clamped on top of it and the outside has my newly made angle iron shelf bracket right over where the crack was. i am going to float the skimmer in the adhesive sealant to ensure it is fastened and the patch cant go anywhere. that 5200 is sticky stuff i tried to peal it where i scuffed the surface and applied it and i feel good about it. worst case if it leaks in the future i will coat the whole bottom with 5200 or PL and bolt a stainless 16 gage plate to the bottom bolted and fastened with the two bottom bulk heads. Just a though im sure the patch will hold manny years and i only have to drain about 600 gal or so to get below the skimmer so if i do need a new fix down the road, it will not be the end of the road.

      the pictures are of my new skimmer support bracket takes up so much less space than the cinder blocks. Cost me $0 to make it was all out of angle iron i found in my scrap bucket. just some time to weld it up.

      the other picture is of the shelf i made for my ultra sieve III. still just need to cover it with scraps of trex deck that i have. than plumb in the sieve. with a 3" line from the skimmer and a 4" line from the bottom drain.
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    20. #100
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      well i have been busy at work the last month and making slow progress on the pond also waited almost a week for a 4.5" hole saw from amazon. but i have the sieve shelf done ready to mount the sieve. new skimmer mount on, skimmer drilled for 3" gravity feed to sieve and 2" over flow to sump. 4" union ball valve on the BD line, and a small upper shelf and brackets made for the pump to sit on. now need to add 4" of 3/4 crushed stone in the pit floor and plumb in the sieve and pump. then im off to the filters installed under the back porch.
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