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  • Results 1 to 12 of 12

    Thread: red on the side of my koi

    1. #1
      bryanv is offline Member
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      red on the side of my koi

      just noticed my one koi's side is quite red. at the base of the tail looks to be a bit of an injury. any ideas
      I have 5 other koi in pond
      Pond is about 7 years old.
      Size 13x6 and 4 ft deep
      55 watt uv
      doing 25% water changes every 2 weeks
      Ammonia 0
      Nitrates 0
      ph 7.8 ish
      Phos 1
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      Last edited by bryanv; 08-27-2011 at 06:51 PM.

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    2. #2
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      another pic
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    3. #3
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      and one more pic
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    4. #4
      expat is offline Senior Member
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      Sunburn ?

    5. #5
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      First thought is ammonia burn. If the water wasnt bad at anytime, my guess is parasites. If you can't scrape and scope, get some Proform c and some prazi

    6. #6
      patch is offline Senior Member
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      looks like a bacterial infection to me?

    7. #7
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      Sunburn was my first thought also from the first pic. However, in the last pic, it looks like beginning fin rot which is bacterial. Quite often the cause is stress - many causes for stress - that allow ever present nasty bacteria to get an upper hand. Scrape for parasites if you can to rule that out. But if bacterial, it will need antibiotics in some form.
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    8. #8
      KoiValley's Avatar
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      Too many questions unanswered. New fish-recently-in the last several months? Then, water quality monitored over several months to assure no ammonia/chlorine/chloramine issues. Proper dechlorinator used according to raw water used. Water changes frequent and monitored. That is a start but there is more.

      Once you have completed your analysis of the water quality, move on to parasite issues. Have you treated for parasites recently and what was used. Have you noticed any behavioral issues which indicate potential problems such as flashing, isolating, clamping of fins or anything else such as breaching, rolling or 180 degree turning at the surface.

      Shiros, Kohakus, and other fish with white fields are commonly used as canaries. Anything wrong with the pond will show up as pink or red on the field(white).

      Filtration not only is the turnover rate of the water to bacterial digestors but the GPH of water used to do so. A ratio of three times per hour of pond size is necessary in most situations. For example, my pond filtration procedure uses approximately 2300gallons weekly and it has a capacity of 6150gallons. My pond has an hourly turnover rate of nearly 16,000gallons per hour. In addition, the flushing or backwashing of these systems must be taken into account. I generally want to see a complete flushing and backwashing which uses 35% of the pond water at least weekly and it can easily be 50%.

      So in order to help you we need a more complete description of what has been going on and what has been done to insure the health of the fish.
      Last edited by KoiValley; 08-28-2011 at 03:38 PM.
      Karl Schoeler, founder: EIHIOICGI

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    9. #9
      Joey S's Avatar
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      Thanks Karl for a more complete response. I'm a bit tired today.
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    10. #10
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      And apologies from me, was running out the door.

      Quote Originally Posted by KoiValley View Post
      Too many questions unanswered. New fish-recently-in the last several months? Then, water quality monitored over several months to assure no ammonia/chlorine/chloramine issues. Proper dechlorinator used according to raw water used. Water changes frequent and monitored. That is a start but there is more.

      Once you have completed your analysis of the water quality, move on to parasite issues. Have you treated for parasites recently and what was used. Have you noticed any behavioral issues which indicate potential problems such as flashing, isolating, clamping of fins or anything else such as breaching, rolling or 180 degree turning at the surface.

      Shiros, Kohakus, and other fish with white fields are commonly used as canaries. Anything wrong with the pond will show up as pink or red on the field(white).

      Filtration not only is the turnover rate of the water to bacterial digestors but the GPH of water used to do so. A ratio of three times per hour of pond size is necessary in most situations. For example, my pond filtration procedure uses approximately 2300gallons weekly and it has a capacity of 6150gallons. My pond has an hourly turnover rate of nearly 16,000gallons per hour. In addition, the flushing or backwashing of these systems must be taken into account. I generally want to see a complete flushing and backwashing which uses 35% of the pond water at least weekly and it can easily be 50%.

      So in order to help you we need a more complete description of what has been going on and what has been done to insure the health of the fish.
      In the meantime, get some supplies. Proform C, prazi and some Tricide. The Proform will take care of the majority of parasites and fungus, the prazi will treat gill fluke, skin flukes and internal parasites. If you can't get injectible antibiotics for the ulcer, Tricide neo will treat the bacterial infection. Ideally we scrape and scope and rule out parasites but sometimes, you have to shotgun or guess and treat what you see.

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    11. #11
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      salt bath

      I would give the fish a salt bath ,if its the only one like it in the pond ! also bowl it up and inspect it and do a scrape and look under the microscope if you don't have one get a local koi club health officer to do it for you or get a local dealer who is experianced in this ! some offer a good service or a local vet !.
      in the mean time do salt baths and check the gills ,as a doitsu fish the skin is more delicate and needs repare the mucus coat has been affected so secondary infection could take hold next ,this could be sun burn,chlorine burn from a hose pipe were the fish swimm into tap water ! or N02 shock ,there are many things so its just doing the detective work ,and ask your self what have you done to the pond and if changing too much water will knock your filter out and cause a N02 rise also over feeding !
      many possables to check !

      place the fish in a quarintine in 3grams of salt per gallon and high oxygen ,check the gills if white its burn ,n03-no4, if they are brown its N02 shock ,ALSO LOOK AT KH if this is low and your PH ! the gills should be nice and bright red !

      looking at your water results =0 nitrates ! you should see some in a active filter 10-25mlg also 25% water changes a week -why so much also no Nirite test results this is a major part of the nitrogen cycle and need to be tested as fish will flash and flick as this will attack the skin and gills and cause whats known as NO2 shock as the filter has been flushed too much and has not got the bacterial content to break the waste of the koi wate down ,also feeding a high protien food will only make this situation worse ,test for this and see its the biggest cause of skin and gill problems ,if you have a high reading add salt to protect the koi at 3 grams per gallon and then slowly over 4-6 weeks change water slowly back to fresh water with 10% per week water changes and feed a low protien pellet -20% wheatgrem or boiled pearl barley and clay paste to give back a good mucus coat to the koi
      and this will repair the skin also put some clay in the water and maintain a kh of 6-8 to give your water a better calcium carbonate level so you have a good filtration bacteria and oxygen content to your water as water gets tired also do you use a decloronator or water purifier do a chlorine test and see if this is still working !

      all the best and hope you track the problem down !
      Last edited by wayne1; 08-29-2011 at 05:54 AM.

    12. #12
      KoiValley's Avatar
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      Please consider holding the salt dips or salt additions to the pond or Q-tank until some of the questions have been addressed. A salt dip will reduce the number of parasites but it is not likely to eradicate them.

      A salt dip needs to be carefully administered as nearly all mains water has some level of salt present. Not knowing the salt level of mains water and adding salt could well be disastrous.

      Adding salt as an ongoing treatment such as .3% will allow parasites to become resistant to salt at higher levels and may inhibit the ability of other parasite treatments to function properly.

      I've yet to find someone who has actually flushed a properly sized filtration system to the point of removing the bacterial bed completely. But we don't know what type of filtration system is being used, nor do we know much else about what the thread starter has going on. So, let's hope for some answers so that we can more correctly address the possible problems.

      Wayne, you have some good ideas. But, like the rest of us, it is just a shot in the dark. So thanks for your input. Let's hope that Bryanv logs in and can provide more information..............
      Karl Schoeler, founder: EIHIOICGI

      Certified: AKCA Better Health Practices December 2008


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