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  • Results 1 to 14 of 14

    Thread: Intex filter

    1. #1
      Neli's Avatar
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      Intex filter

      I am making a filter for my babies in the intex pool.
      This is what I have done so far.
      I will make the first one sand and gravel, but I will put a bend on the bottom at the entrance of water...so maybe (just maybe) it can work a bit like a vortex and I will be able to flush something from the bottom...
      The bottom think drain will have a gate valve...
      Any advise or problems U see with it...?
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    2. #2
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      This is for the air, but I will add one cross in the middle...
      Do U think this pipe is too small for air?
      I will use a compressor 1.5 HP for it.
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      I plan to put a submersible pump in the center of the intex,a 2" pipe to bottom of black drum for mechanical filtration and bio in the next....maybe plastic shavings or stereophoam beads...Not sure yet which one is better...
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      I think I'd put more, bigger, holes in the tray supporting the rock/sand. Unless you're using very small
      rock, the holes can be pretty big.
      I'm not sure about the air hose either... I've never used an air compressor, but it seems like you need
      a lot of volume of air, as opposed to pressure, to clean it.

      I don't know if I'd work too hard on the bend in the entrance pipe... the way the s/g filter
      works, any vortex type action on the bottom won't make much difference.

      I just used a single s/g filter on mine... it has worked fine.

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...!!!&highlight=
      --Steve



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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      I think I'd put more, bigger, holes in the tray supporting the rock/sand. Unless you're using very small
      rock, the holes can be pretty big.
      Point noted, and I will try to make them bigger. How much bigger?
      I'm not sure about the air hose either... I've never used an air compressor, but it seems like you need
      a lot of volume of air, as opposed to pressure, to clean it.
      Is it not the more the volume in a limited space the more the pressure? I know lots of people that use compressor for cleaning... I was told to reduce/regulate the air a bit or it might be too much. I dont have any blowers here...Looked everywhere

      I don't know if I'd work too hard on the bend in the entrance pipe...What do U mean? the way the s/g filter
      works, any vortex type action on the bottom won't make much difference.
      Any way I wanted to put a flush point in the bottom the air manifold is too high...if it works it will work if not no harm done I guess.


      I just used a single s/g filter on mine... it has worked fine.
      I will use one too and pump with pressure inside....The other drum is for bio. I might add later a second bio drum.

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...!!!&highlight=
      Thanks for the advise....did not know my holes are too small.
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      Quote Originally Posted by Neli View Post
      Point noted, and I will try to make them bigger. How much bigger?
      As big as you can without the rock falling through.
      Look at Steve's grating... very little restriction, but small enough to not let the rocks through.

      Quote Originally Posted by Neli View Post
      What do U mean?
      A s/g filter is an up flow with very little room under the rock... I'm not sure what any vortex action would accomplish.
      But I totally agree with putting a valve to flush whatever might accumulate on the bottom, under the tray.

      --Steve



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      OK I got it...
      Thanks!
      U help me so much!
      It is just that the drum was higher than the other one and some what conical on the bottom, so my kind of fitting need a bit more flat surface to fix it, or it will leak....
      so I had to put it higher, so it remained lots of space under, so I thought: cone+ enough space= possibility of vortex, that I can flush every day and blow the SF twice a week.
      And since the drum is too high, and if I fill it with too much sand gravel, it might become restrictive to the flow, I thought of designing some kind of additional bio filtration on top from strappings or Izeki... that can be cleaned easily with the compressor at the same time...but before I do it I will post for advise, since U most often see things that I dont see, and warn me of pitfalls.
      I thought of putting a bag, made from izeki, in the shape of a cylinder, with a flat bottom....full of plastic strappings....so it fits nicely in the drum, maybe just gathered on top with the gathers high above the water level...so when U want to flush the sand...U just lift it and bash it few times up and down....inside the filter on top of the sand....then lift it out in order to flush the sand with air, then put it back...it will be light and easy to lift / clean...
      The drum is much higher than the other drum....
      So what do U think about that...where can I go wrong here?
      Any better idea?
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    8. #8
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      i am a little lost in what you are trying to do... or rather wanting to accomplish. i see the little things but not understanding the "bigger picture" so to speak.

      is this pool/pond just a temporary thing? or more permanent setup?

      example: for myself. my temp pool. just feeding the critters has caused a lot of muck to build up already in the bottom. and i have had too clean the side grates on the little submersible pumps a couple times now. i have not filtering on this pond. and do regular daily water changes. *reason why on koiphen now* one garden hose draining water, while other is filling it back up. and i need to keep eye on things so i do not over fill the pool.

      if i was fairly sure i would need to keep these fish in the pool for 6 months or so. i would quickly add a "retro bottom drain" 2" or 3" pipe through side of pool. to a 55 gallon drum acting as partial settling chamber / mechanical filter. and most likely use a 5 gallon bucket or what ever cheap container i could find. to place directly after it. to place pump/s in. and then pump water up to a 55 gallon sand and gravel filter. ((granted above means either lowering the first 55 gallon drum down. or raising the pond so you can make full use of the 55 gallon drum. but *shrugs* sand and gravel filter does not matter due to it is pump feed. and top of drum needs to be set above water level.

      =====================
      shop vac, or a leaf blower, can be used instead of an "air blower" to clean a sand and gravel filter. some of the smaller units out there may not have enough umph to push up through the depth of water. so you may need to.....
      1. partially drain the sand and gravel first of water.
      2. then turn on shop vac or leaf blower and get it pumping air into the filter.
      3. let water back into the filter. so gravel and sand get cleaned.

      above is a slight work around for some smaller units. *but shrugs*

      to be honest never used an "air compressor" to clean or put air into water. but using various air tools, etc... i am going to assume you will need a "shop size" air compressor that has a large size tank on it. and not one of them little portable air compressors. a "regulator" is advised. though for me a local hardware stores wanted to charge me about the same amount for regulator vs just buying a shop vac or leaf blower for a few bucks more.

      ========================
      air ring.... i do not like it and i think you will have problems with it. "air will seak path of least resistance" and the pipe coming form (shop vac / leaf blower / air blower / air compressor) what ever holes are nearest to it. will receive majority of all the air.

      and just guessing but i doubt you will get much air from the center middle ring. if anything at all.

      double check "birdman" and "kent wallace" sand and gravel builds. and a few others.
      personal preference are manifolds made out of regular 45 fittings and tee fittings. most of these builds have the air pipe coming down into the cleaning manifold as close to center as possible. a small amount of holes drilled near center. and then more holes drilled around the outside ring. it helps distribute the air through the air cleaning manifold better. so entire media gets clean vs just one side of the drum.
      Pond and Construction Forum 101 good place for any first timers to the forum. for finding resources and general info.

      Ryan

    9. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by boggen View Post
      i am a little lost in what you are trying to do... or rather wanting to accomplish. i see the little things but not understanding the "bigger picture" so to speak.

      is this pool/pond just a temporary thing? or more permanent setup?
      It is for the babies/fry my fish had....They are around 120....and it is a temporary housing until they are 4 inch maybe...and can be given/sold away

      example: for myself. my temp pool. just feeding the critters has caused a lot of muck to build up already in the bottom. and i have had too clean the side grates on the little submersible pumps a couple times now. i have not filtering on this pond. and do regular daily water changes. *reason why on koiphen now* one garden hose draining water, while other is filling it back up. and i need to keep eye on things so i do not over fill the pool.
      I do daily water changes too. I just add water for 20 min and let it overflow from the lower hole of the intex where I put a sieve, and carefully siphon the bottom.
      if i was fairly sure i would need to keep these fish in the pool for 6 months or so. i would quickly add a "retro bottom drain" 2" or 3" pipe through side of pool. to a 55 gallon drum acting as partial settling chamber / mechanical filter. and most likely use a 5 gallon bucket or what ever cheap container i could find. to place directly after it. to place pump/s in. and then pump water up to a 55 gallon sand and gravel filter. ((granted above means either lowering the first 55 gallon drum down. or raising the pond so you can make full use of the 55 gallon drum. but *shrugs* sand and gravel filter does not matter due to it is pump feed. and top of drum needs to be set above water level.
      I am in Africa.Finding fittings or even the glue here to make retro drain is impossible...
      =====================
      shop vac, or a leaf blower, can be used instead of an "air blower" to clean a sand and gravel filter. some of the smaller units out there may not have enough umph to push up through the depth of water. so you may need to.....
      1. partially drain the sand and gravel first of water.

      2. then turn on shop vac or leaf blower and get it pumping air into the filter.
      3. let water back into the filter. so gravel and sand get cleaned.
      I searched everywhere for any thing that can blow air with force...even took pictures of what I found and posted on another thread...I can use only the compressor. And I was told by some one who uses a compressor, that the one I want to buy is too big and I will need to reduce the air....so if I have enough air, then maybe it will go every where??????
      above is a slight work around for some smaller units. *but shrugs*

      to be honest never used an "air compressor" to clean or put air into water. but using various air tools, etc... i am going to assume you will need a "shop size" air compressor that has a large size tank on it. and not one of them little portable air compressors. a "regulator" is advised. though for me a local hardware stores wanted to charge me about the same amount for regulator vs just buying a shop vac or leaf blower for a few bucks more.
      what is a shop vac
      ========================
      air ring.... i do not like it and i think you will have problems with it. "air will seak path of least resistance" and the pipe coming form (shop vac / leaf blower / air blower / air compressor) what ever holes are nearest to it. will receive majority of all the air.

      and just guessing but i doubt you will get much air from the center middle ring. if anything at all.

      double check "birdman" and "kent wallace" sand and gravel builds. and a few others.
      personal preference are manifolds made out of regular 45 fittings and tee fittings. most of these builds have the air pipe coming down into the cleaning manifold as close to center as possible. a small amount of holes drilled near center. and then more holes drilled around the outside ring. it helps distribute the air through the air cleaning manifold better. so entire media gets clean vs just one side of the drum.
      Point taken....I have made it so I will put it in water and try it...if it does not work I will make a new one...What worries me about the bigger one with 45* is fittings adapters to connect to the compressor...
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    10. #10
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      shop vac = think of a regular vacuum cleaner you use to clean carpets with. they normally have a little hose / nozzle you can use to clean up in tight corners and on furniture. a shop vac just has the hose / nozzle. and tends to be more powerful (bigger motor) than a standard household vacuum. plus most of them has 2 inlets. one for dry stuff, and second for water. for say cleaning up a wet basement. most of the shop vacs. the outlet on them. you can place hose in. and turn it into a "leaf blower"

      EDIT: above describs WET/DRY shop vac. there are just "dry shop vac"

      most wood working shows on TV. tend to use a dedicated central vacuum setup. to suck all the wood chips and dust to. but majority of large tools, table saw, chop saw, etc... have a "dust collector port" on them. some may just have a little bag to collect dust / wood chips. but for smaller shops (regular folks) may just use a "shop vac" connected to the dust port, to keep dust from going all over the place in the shop. hence "shop vac"

      ==================
      retro drain = a dome with a pipe coming into the side of it. and normally a 3 to 4 feet to hold dome up off the floor.

      what is a dome? 5 gallon bucket cut down so it is only a few inches high. or it could be a "large bowl" from your kitchen. it could be anything.

      what a dome does..... instead of water being sucked directly into end of a pipe and from one direction. a dome spreads the suction point out and around. this also causes a larger suction area to be created. like vacuum nozzles were you have a little nozzles to get in between couch cushions vs a larger size nozzle for say steps or carpets. the dome = larger nozzle.

      generally the "gap height" distance between bottom edge of dome and floor of pond = approx 1/2" give or take a little.

      www.worldwidekoiclub.org -> pond building info -> (forget links to click) it is one or two more links. to find "retro bottom drains" or rather a bunch of links to builds here on koiphen for retro bottom drains.

      all ya need is a large bowl for a dome, some glue or silicon or polyurthen some legs could be pieces of plastic or end caps or something. and cut a grove in dome for the pipe or how ever you want to connect the pipe to the dome.

      ================================
      FRY

      what ever you use, fry are going to end up every were more so if they are eggs still. in filters, in pumps, etc... if you are placing submersible pump in pond. good chance a good amount of fry will be killed. and you would be better off creating a foam pre-filter box.

      other words a plastic box of some sort with a bunch of holes drilled or slits cut into it. then pump placed into it. and then a bunch of foam put around everything. this will keep fry from getting into the pump.

      if you are placing pump in another external filter. then highly advised to have a settling chamber, with static basket. between outlet on pond and pump, this will make it easier to bowl / net out the babies. and ensure more are kept alive.

      above is most likely getting overboard. *but shrugs*

      =================
      fittings.... that i do not know about you being in zambia. here in US. most hardware stores have slip to thread fittings. and then bushings or reducing couplers. that allows you to go from different sizes fairly easily. along with different "thread patterns"

      if anything you should be able to pickup say a "barbed" fitting. and cut off end of an air hose. and pipe clamp it on. and then attach to air cleaning manifold. and then use a quick connect or like to air compressor.

      barbed ends look like the ends of the TEE's you are using now for air ring.
      Pond and Construction Forum 101 good place for any first timers to the forum. for finding resources and general info.

      Ryan

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    11. #11
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      Thanks for all the advise. Much appreciated.

      Quote Originally Posted by boggen View Post
      shop vac = think of a regular vacuum cleaner you use to clean carpets with. they normally have a little hose / nozzle you can use to clean up in tight corners and on furniture. a shop vac just has the hose / nozzle. and tends to be more powerful (bigger motor) than a standard household vacuum. plus most of them has 2 inlets. one for dry stuff, and second for water. for say cleaning up a wet basement. most of the shop vacs. the outlet on them. you can place hose in. and turn it into a "leaf blower"
      Did not know it is a vacuum cleaner... the shop vac. I just saw people using compressors In South Africa...That is why I settled for it...Will go to our Biggest shop and take pictures of any thing that blows air and looks like a industrial vacuum cleaner. Posted ones already pictures of what I found....
      EDIT: above describs WET/DRY shop vac. there are just "dry shop vac"

      most wood working shows on TV. tend to use a dedicated central vacuum setup. to suck all the wood chips and dust to. but majority of large tools, table saw, chop saw, etc... have a "dust collector port" on them. some may just have a little bag to collect dust / wood chips. but for smaller shops (regular folks) may just use a "shop vac" connected to the dust port, to keep dust from going all over the place in the shop. hence "shop vac"

      ==================
      retro drain = a dome with a pipe coming into the side of it. and normally a 3 to 4 feet to hold dome up off the floor.
      See pic 1 . Those are all the fittings available here... From 2 of the biggest shops, that specialize in fittings...And trust me there is no shop where they sale fittings that I have not been. The only one I found that is suitable the pipe is on the bottom, not on the side, add a bend....and it becomes too high...not suitable... I built my pond without BD... Did not know much about ponds...so what I did is I put a perforated pipe on the bottom, that is working very well, but the pump sucks from it...so I have a sand filter after the pump for that reason that is cleaned every day. I have a number of pictures on how to do a DIY retro drain...for the pond I am going to build it will work, since it can be under the concrete, but for the intex...not.

      what is a dome? 5 gallon bucket cut down so it is only a few inches high. or it could be a "large bowl" from your kitchen. it could be anything.

      what a dome does..... instead of water being sucked directly into end of a pipe and from one direction. a dome spreads the suction point out and around. this also causes a larger suction area to be created. like vacuum nozzles were you have a little nozzles to get in between couch cushions vs a larger size nozzle for say steps or carpets. the dome = larger nozzle.

      generally the "gap height" distance between bottom edge of dome and floor of pond = approx 1/2" give or take a little.

      www.worldwidekoiclub.org -> pond building info -> (forget links to click) it is one or two more links. to find "retro bottom drains" or rather a bunch of links to builds here on koiphen for retro bottom drains.
      I think I know all those threads by heart...now...I tried to learn and understand it all...Very good info there...some a bit....misleading foe dummies,
      all ya need is a large bowl for a dome, some glue or silicon or polyurthen some legs could be pieces of plastic or end caps or something. and cut a grove in dome for the pipe or how ever you want to connect the pipe to the dome.

      ================================
      FRY

      what ever you use, fry are going to end up every were more so if they are eggs still. in filters, in pumps, etc... if you are placing submersible pump in pond. good chance a good amount of fry will be killed. and you would be better off creating a foam pre-filter box.
      What I thought of doing is...Put the pump when the fry is a little bit bigger, and then use a laundry basket tall one , with very large holes, made out of rigid plastic, and a mosquito net netting around the basked tied on top around the pump...so that it is not sucked into the pump, and use that until the fry isaround 2" to be on the safe side...The grill on the pump is 1cm....so if the fish is larger than the holes it will not be a problem (I hope) I know a submersible pump is not the best...but I have it and instead of buying another pump...I thought of economizing... My fish started breeding nd they are at it every 2 weeks...so I build today a concrete base for a second intex pool....They will bankrupt me. That one I will set up with an external pump (I have it but it is a bit too big and keep it as spare for the pond...) there I will go the normal route...sediment chamber, mech filter...bio...returns...maybe add a bakki if I use pressurized sand filter after the pump. But I am trying to economize as much as possible...
      other words a plastic box of some sort with a bunch of holes drilled or slits cut into it. then pump placed into it. and then a bunch of foam put around everything. this will keep fry from getting into the pump.

      if you are placing pump in another external filter. then highly advised to have a settling chamber, with static basket. between outlet on pond and pump, this will make it easier to bowl / net out the babies. and ensure more are kept alive.

      above is most likely getting overboard. *but shrugs*

      =================
      fittings.... that i do not know about you being in zambia. here in US. most hardware stores have slip to thread fittings. and then bushings or reducing couplers. that allows you to go from different sizes fairly easily. along with different "thread patterns"

      if anything you should be able to pickup say a "barbed" fitting. and cut off end of an air hose. and pipe clamp it on. and then attach to air cleaning manifold. and then use a quick connect or like to air compressor.
      This I dont understand...but I am guessing what one end of the barbed fitting is...I will just need to improvise...some how, and I am getting very used to that of late...

      barbed ends look like the ends of the TEE's you are using now for air ring.
      I can get barbed (????) fitting (is it the one used for irrigation pollypipes?), with a thread on the end...but very few sizes...and very hard to find...I used second hand ones...
      I want to find the blower, buy it...and see how it will work with what I made...under water, then if it is not OK I will do like Steve or Kent.
      I thought of using a perforated pipe again as a retro drain in the second intex, if I use a outside pump. That means I will not have a settlement chamber...but sand filter after the pump...or my invention of izeki...which is very good mechanical filter...Luke put it in his pond after he saw mine and he told me that is happy so far. Or at list it was an improvement on what he had.
      I want to use flexible 2 inch pipe heavy duty between the drums, to avoid friction losses...and for ease of use.
      Need to calculate that as well, ones I decide on the media to use...so can account for that too.But if the pump is too strong, I will just add a second 2" pipe between the drums...
      But I suspect the sand filter will cause serious reduction in flow, and the intex is not very big...so might be OK one 2" pipe...
      Dont U think that the submersible pump will work as BD? The intake is on the bottom underpart, like a ring around the pump, and can handle particles up to 1cm. I dont have trees...near by...
      I thought of making a skimmer from the side hole of the intex...How can it be done so it works like the jet U described....using one pump...so it sucks water from the skimmer too, by using the same principle... Can it work? I dont have much dirt on the surface any way...
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    12. #12
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      This is the blowers I found...Can it work? It is for blowing things...what I dont know.
      Did not look for a vacuum thing then...
      U see the white fitting above? That is all I could find to connect pipes to the drums...the only thing...I used rubber for washer, and had to cut the holes by hand exactly...
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      have you read the instructions on this new toy then,n/b,,,,chris,,,

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      the white fittings you have shown in photois for waste from sinks baths etc all push fitwill be no good for what you are trying to do with the air compessor that air blower as you put it will do all your pond and holding tank on the island, if you can get the right pipe and fittings to do the job , that pump looks to me to be off some kind of air ducting, it will probley cut in and out on a thermo switch, will be noisey as well, by the look of the blade part ,, question ,,can you not get any air pumps for ponds out there , any make,,,chris

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