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Thread: How to make a phoam phraxionator, 1300-1500 gph

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    Any questions?

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    Turning over your water once every 3-4 hours with one of these seems to be a great idea. Fish seemed healthier, not having to swim in that junk all summer, and being able to see them and NOT have bubbles everywhere was just nice all around.

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    I can wait to get mine going!! I do have a question. Once the unit is up and running, does the Phoam output drop off. Do you run yours all the time? Or do you turn it off if the phoam level drops off?

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    a couple suggestions....

    Some have put some sort of shower unit to spray the water on the bioballs. I personally went old skool and put a small 3x3 flat rock on top of the bio balls to encourage the water to spread out. I may install some sort of spraybar in the top this spring on mine.

    use a 5 gallon bucket you know is 5 gallons and see what your flow is if you don;t know.

    I would not flow more than 1400-1500 gph through this unit. If you flow slightly less, you may have to turn the ball valve at the exit a slight bit to keep the water at that level earlier shown. you want the water level to be just into the top of the tee.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommygug View Post
    I can wait to get mine going!! I do have a question. Once the unit is up and running, does the Phoam output drop off. Do you run yours all the time? Or do you turn it off if the phoam level drops off?
    You can turn it off. Phoam output SHOULD drop off, but as feeding increases through summer, I just left mine on. Electricity isn't that much here, and I felt that the aeration it provided helped as well, both in degassing the water, adding O2 to the water, and in cooling the water some in that hot summer.

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    Nice design Ethan. I was going to add that you can always grow vines around it or hide it behind some type of brush, but you already beat me to it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ethan25 View Post
    With this phoam phraxionator, it MUST BE LOCATED ABOVE the pond level. You use gravity to flow the water out of it back to the pond. I have not tested this unit to gravity flow back through TPRs. THe reason I am not sure about that is because of the added back pressure from the TPRs being underwater. I do not know that it will work with that, as the backpressure may toy with the water level in the unit too much.

    It is preferable that these just gravity flow back to the pond over the edge.
    Nice refresher thread for the upcoming summer season, as PhPh's are great for DOC removal, and I think, ultra fine filtration as you mentioned.

    Your PhPh can easily be put in a remote location and fed to a TPR, as long as your outlet pipe is above pond level, for the 1400gph aroud 8-10" would work.

    You could simulate this by raising the whole unit the appropriate distance than put a 90 on the end of the outlet, connect a 2-3' section of pipe that discharges below the water level to simulate a TPR, then let-r-rip

    edit: If you try this would you mind testing at different depths and report the differences
    Last edited by Norm Walsh; 02-03-2010 at 12:40 PM.

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    ethan, how would this work if i wanted it connected to a 2" tpr?

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    Presently other filtration..

    With the main filtration running at 1/4 its capacity, it is being used as anothe filtration. But in the summer months I place it where it does an excellent job as PP and I attach an eductor to it to increase water flow at that outflow.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrmnkg View Post
    Nice refresher thread for the upcoming summer season, as PhPh's are great for DOC removal, and I think, ultra fine filtration as you mentioned.

    Your PhPh can easily be put in a remote location and fed to a TPR, as long as your outlet pipe is above pond level, for the 1400gph aroud 8-10" would work.

    You could simulate this by raising the whole unit the appropriate distance than put a 90 on the end of the outlet, connect a 2-3' section of pipe that discharges below the water level to simulate a TPR, then let-r-rip

    edit: If you try this would you mind testing at different depths and report the differences
    I will test this and report the findings....once my pond unthaws. I suppose I have a 55 gallon barrel lying around I could try it out with.

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    I found it very important to ensure that the 4" foam exit is straight up in the final installation. Mine was off a bit and I had a harder time getting the water level just right.

    ~Raymond.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigma Koi View Post
    I found it very important to ensure that the 4" foam exit is straight up in the final installation. Mine was off a bit and I had a harder time getting the water level just right.

    ~Raymond.
    Yes, I agree that things being level and even are definitely key. I secured my unit to the fence next to the pond with 18" zip ties. Two did the trick. Very sturdy, wouldn't budge.

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    There are other methods for installing a phoam phraxionator (also known as foam fractionators depending on your location in the U.S.). Some install them as a tube in the water column, in the filtration pit or in the pond and have bubbles rise in them, with water flowing downward, creating foam extraction that way. Others will purchase items such as Clarity Units which are guaranteed to do their work. They are very nice and high end, and look far better than what I created. They are pretty much the nicest units out there you can buy.

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    Gravity flow from the fractionator to a TPR will be the same as from any other source. The 2" ball valve creates more head than the pipe and the pond only creates static head above water level so sitting on the edge of the pond with the outlet pipe going directly into the water with a 90deg fitting for direction would be all you need. Actually since you're closing the valve down you might just try different restrictor sizes in the 90. Try 1/1/2 " first then a 1 1/4" bushing and see when it matches the restriction created by the valve.
    Last edited by Kent Wallace; 02-03-2010 at 01:55 PM.

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    Kent, I understand what your saying about the reducers on the outlet, but I think the BV is better so you can dial in the water level. Balancing the in & out might need some tweeking.

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    I`m a Huge Phoam Phractionator Fan as you know and these DIY Versions save Members a Fortune compared with Commercial Brands So Well Done Guys for all the Threads on them

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    I'm not suggesting replacing the ball valve just experimenting. The ball valve in this design is essential but the 2" down pipe into the pond may not be. Maybe a smaller pipe with less ball valve adjustment would work!

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    The one thing I do think is necessary is the "dwell time" for it to allow bubbles to rise. Troy (Headache) suggested that he is flowing near 2,000 gph through his. I would like to know what the max is.

    The cool thing is, I built two of these for $325 total, and have 3,000 gph split between the two.

    so, for $325, you can build two of them and get 3,000+ gph.



    cool, huh? Just put them side by side, and split the flow using ball valves and a TEE before them.

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    Awesome! I have a skimmer (not the traditional skimmer on a pond) for my saltwater reef and it pulls unbelievably gross DOCs out of my reef tank and BOY is that stuff STINKY. Anyways, awesome DIY! I was wondering what to do for DOCs on the pond without spending and arm and leg, thanks for sharing!





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